La Fogata Mexican Restaurant - Sherman Oaks, CA

Family-owned Mexican spot, perfect for a drop-in when you happen to be nearby. 

The ambiance is as casual as it gets, a step up from cafeteria-style, where you order and pay and then sit to wait for your food. There’s nothing casual about their flavors, though, and you’ll never leave less than satisfied.

Chips and Guacamole are a much-needed starter. Try the green stuff, it’s delicious.

Don’t skimp on their salsas either. They make them daily, in-house. Choose a sweeter iteration or just savor the sweet burn of the hotter red. All go with chips, all work as dip, and all make the food that much better when drizzled on. 

It’s home cooking comfort food all around, but instead of a constant barrage of protein and carbs, hearty plates like the Arroz con Pollo incorporate a healthy helping of veggies as well. The chicken is juicy against cooked but still crisp chunks of zucchini. Smothered in cheese on a bed of seasoned rice, it’s not a combo you’ll want to miss. 

The Carnitas are a more common offering, and they are fantastic. The pork is tender and concentrates so much flavor. Wrap it with rice and beans, and you can’t go wrong with either type of tortilla. 

When in Sherman Oaks, seat yo’self and treat yo’self at La Fogata. The food is fantastic, and I love that it remains family owned and has stood strong for so long. Maybe if I ask nicely, this family will adopt me?

Curryfornia - Torrance

Curry bowls and and heaping hot pasta on plates. Say no more.

The pasta is Japanese fusion, and they make a fantastic Spaghetti Carbonara. The noods are al dente, and each strand of sphag is evenly coated with cylindrical spirals of thick egg-heavy cream. There’s plenty of bacon to add a smoky savor, and at  $11 for a filing bowl, what’s not to like?

The Curry is for the equally frugal, customizable at every level, even at the base where you can elect a toasted baguette in lieu of rice in white or brown.

No need to shout your order at someone who painstakingly enters every option into the register. Mounted iPads show you every option and cut out an impatient wait in line. 

Start with a selection of three free toppings that range from eggs to pickles to tuna or potato salad. I like mine with gluttonous bacon, sweet corn, fried onions for an after-crunch. Varying spice levels add another layer of decision - medium is perfect if you want your curry to cut a little deeper but don’t want too much burn. I’m told the hot is sizzling without the scorch, a nice next-level selection if you can take some heat. Meatier, more substantial toppings cost a little extra, but you can’t go wrong with a chicken or pork cutlet, though I’m devastated they ran out of karaage that day. They even have fun options like takoyaki, which are unexpectedly delicious when dipped in hot curry.

A streamlined process for a streamlined meal, though the flavors are far from simple. the curry is rich and as thick as a Cajun roux. The sweeter savory is memorable, and it may be the best I’ve had in the South Bay. Too bad Gardena is still a bit of a drive. I’d be here every day for lunch if I were close. 

Lee's Tofu - Gardena

 

This parking nightmare of a giant Gardena strip mall is a gold mine for amazing, affordable food. Teeming with every kind of eat for every kind of Asian, you can literally stumble around blindfolded and still guarantee a good time. 

It’s hard to try them all when you already know what you like, but I regret nothing about Lee’s Tofu. It’s never too soon for their sea-salty, savory, beefy-with-a-blast-of-brine Bean Paste Soon Tofu, a bubbling broth of silky comfort with a kick. 

Even the freebies are right on - in the Ban Chan, the pickle game is strong. 

Soon tofu makes a rich combo with a sizzling skillet of Beef Bulgogi if you’re really hungry for protein, but the tofu remains the reason you’re here.

Do come with a friend or three - you’ll need someone to share the Seafood & Green Onion Pancake with. This crispy-fried concoction has a concentration of crabmeat and all things seafood in an eggy glue, and every bite is amazing.

I think Lee’s Tofu is often overlooked in favor of old giants like Boiling Point and Furaibo and sits in the shadow of noodling newcomers like Northern Cafe. No one thinks to check out this sweetly nondescript spot in the corner instead of waiting in line elsewhere. I’ve had my fair share of fantastic food in this complex, though, and I would still go back just for the tofu. 

Madre - Torrance

Old Torrance has always been lively enough, but it’s Madre that adds a real splash of color to the evening scene. Gorgeous decor and live music on weekends, Madre is the place to see and be seen, with a buzzing ambiance that suits all relationships alike, whether you’re a happy hour office party or a couple catching up on love and life.

You’ll love life even more at Madre. Plates of meticulously made Oaxacan food and lip-smacking mezcal cocktails are mesmerizing, and it all starts with a creamy Elote. The butter and cheese carry a hint of grilled smoke, and crispy crickets add their spice and crunch. Don’t get bug-eyed about the bugs - they add something special to this dish.

The Chicharrones are thick and fatty crisps. Fat cools with a center scoop of chunky Guacamole, and the sweet green cuts the gristly fry.

There isn’t a single dish on their menu that isn’t exquisite, but I haven’t found anything I can love more than the Tamal Oaxaqueno. Pearly cornmeal cushions soft shredded chicken as a mole negro unveils its color. There is an earthy grain of sesame and nuts, a bitter finish that makes the dark chocolate dance. A flash of chilies packs some heat and makes every flavor linger. I’m rarely a fan of just a sauce, but there is magic in Madre’s mole.

Even the Tacos aren’t just tacos here, with fluffy homemade tortillas. Barbacoa de Chivo fills these foldable beauties with a slow stew of chili-dripping juices.

I’ve never gone to the same place twice in one week, but holy mole, Madre leaves me wanting more.

Their prices are more than reasonable, but the DineLA menu is too good to refuse. A sampling of their highlights, this menu is a small preview of their skill. 

The Ceviche de Pescado starts things light with a tender fish splashed in citrus.

The Octolan Empanada is a packed pouch of crispy cover, an effusion of chicken in spunky mole amarillo. This one is a brighter mole, more of the up-going spices than the deeper notes of chocolate like the negro. 

The Costillas en Chile Morita make for a few deceptively-filling bites. The meat is a bit more chewy, and the sauce sits heavy with a grittier spice.

The Mole Negro at expected perfection sits regal upon a chicken throne. White meat finishes neutral to highlight the deep-cutting chili-chocolate. As usual, it’s a plate you’ll want to lick.

Dessert is a semi-sweet sorrow, as it signals the end of another amazing meal. Molotes de Fruta feature a starchy plantation dough deep-fried with a bit of fruit in a deeper pocket. Not as memorable as the mains, but there are worse ways to finish.

DineLA was quite the deal, but it’s the tamal and barbacoa that keep me coming. Next time I’ll even wash it all down with a cocktail - they make much ado with mezcal and tequila.