Angler - Los Angeles

An SF treasure makes a splash again the backdrop of Beverly Center. Angler casts a line amongst the posh dining scene of Beverly Grove. Even the table settings are exquisite and the salt-shaking quail has us weirdly obsessed.

Seafood swims, lively and fresh in a row of tanks not unlike a Chinese banquet center but a heck of a lot cleaner with better lights. Order the daily specials immediately if you know what you want - their limited quantities are market-fresh and sell out fast. 

Start with something sweet and simple. The Sea Bream Ceviche soaks in a lemon broth with a hint of earth from root-y lemongrass. A plantain chip adds a starchy crunch, and the lemongrass lifts and refines, bringing out the silkier textures and creamier notes.

A Whole Grilled Marble Fish slips in a slurp of lemon butter with a tender mi-cuite texture that melts into a buttery haze. 

Spoon some yuzu pepper for a kick of the green and wrap in a leafy veg for a pop of something bright and bitter.  

They fry the bones into chips to dip, giving a whole new meaning to "fish and chips".

Bull's blood Beets are a critical offset to the treasures of the sea. Their clever cooking makes them meaty and dense, still with the sweet and salty-savory root-vegetable soul.

The prettiest, most succulent invertebrates on the table, take a bite of the Santa Barbara Squid. No squid has ever been so supple, and the simple seasoning of lemon and salt shows how less is so much more. 

The Striped Bass Head and Collar is a deceptively smaller plate that packs a hefty portion. The heads require meticulous dissection, and you'll miss the liquid-fat fish cheeks if you're not too careful. The heavy brush of sticky sweet soy sinks into the pure, smooth flesh. 

How good can a Sundae be? Famous last words. Their handmade pound-of-cream-per-square-millimeter house-made soft serve will render all other sundaes obsolete. Sprinkles of cacoa nibs add so much with so little, and don't ever stop them when they ask if you want more salted caramel. It may look like it's flooding the sundae, but you're wrong. Any less than 2-3 ladles and you'll be begging for more. 

Alright, I get it. Michelin was right on in SF. You get what you pay for here, and Angler can do no wrong.