Urth Caffe - Santa Monica

Ughhhh...the line! If the parking-lot 405 doesn't suck enough, the transition to the 10 doesn't make you poke your eyes out, and the parking situation on a farmer's market day doesn't drive you to homicide, there's the line. Four years in LA and it's the first time I haven't stormed away from Urth Caffe in disgust. What's so special about this stupid place anyway? I bet their food is as bad as their line! ("Their grapes were sour," said the fox.)

I finally braved the line because I didn't have a choice. My sister-in-law's choice, NOT mine. And she hasn't been my sister long enough to pull my usual only-child, change-all-your-plans-for-mememe crap. 

Somehow, there is no line at 11 AM, the day before Thanksgiving, and despite what looks like a whatever-it's-just-cafe-food menu, I find myself smiling at the tranquil outside terrace and a friendly cashier who clearly loves his job. 

Curry is my craving, and I'm loading up. The Curried Pumpkin Soup is hearty and make-a-pie thick. Shred-y and squash-y, heavy on the tongue and light on the palate. 

It comes in combo with a half sandwich, but why not get a whole for only two dollars more? 15 dollars just for soup and a...never mind. The Chicken Curry is WORTH IT. Cold and finely chopped, the chicken is a class act, with a full-flavored meatiness that actually tastes like chicken. With curried mayo and sweet raisins, the natural freshness makes it pop.

Sometimes, you just want the Cheese Plate. You always want THIS cheese plate. Cheese platter is a more accurate description, and the cheeses so basic yet so luxurious. The brie has creamy, silky substance, the Jarlsberg is buttery and smooth, the gouda is goooood-ahhhh, and the French feta achieves a remarkable balance of pungence, salt, and fermented stink; a classy touch of restraint. Everything goes with everything else, especially the crisp, tart apples and giant, juicy grapes.

I get it. I get why the line is so long. It isn't easy to find this artful balance, this wholesome, earthy goodness, even in the so-natural-it's-unnatural culture of Santa Monica south. 

I make my hatred for Santa Monica clear, but even I will admit that there are restaurants worth seeing and plenty of food worth eating. Urth Caffe got me, and they had me at a single bite. They know how to cook, they know what to cook it with, and they know how to put it together to make it irresistibly good!