Eko-In - Koyasan

We can't check in until afternoon so we leave our bags at the bustling temple of Eko-In to explore our Koyasan day #2. A longer walk around the town yields an elaborate mausoleum and a grand temple.

We finally check in and I note that Eko-In looks... Exactly like Kumagaiji. Except it has less luxuries for a higher price. We're on the second floor of the back building so it's a flight of stairs down to the bathroom and a walk across the rainy courtyard to take a bath.

A couple hours to kill and then we run to the one reason we booked this room: meditation class. A monk instructs an eager group in rudimentary Ajisan, and we sit cross-legged, focusing on the length of each breath. I figured it wouldn't be hard. It's impossible not to relax in a place so calm and so zen... Unless you're me. It must be hard to meditate with one annoying person squirming beside you... And I was THAT person.

How do people do this?! Also, how the hell do you keep your eyes half open and half closed? That alone made it impossible to meditate.

Meditation was a lot more strenuous than I expected. I exerted myself so much I was ravenous by dinnertime.

A more reasonably-sized meal is served at Eko-In, one that is much easier to finish. Thanks to the cross-courtyard trek, the Tempura is cold by the time it arrives. Still the veggies are welcome, unlike the Kelp, which tastes fishy and has the slimy texture of uncooked octopus. Works for some people, not so much for me. The Sesame Tofu is cut from the same block as Kumagaiji, and the clear Soup is similar.

The Freeze-Dried Tofu is a bit different, adorned with blocks of sweet gluten, taro, and rice cake. The Soba is rather soft, made savory with potent slices of shiitake.

We slept soundly once again, but an early train made breakfast a lot less likely. They gave us onigiri with pickles so we could eat it on the go.

Once considered Japan's best-kept secret, there's no doubt that Koyasan is out. Unmistakeably a tourist-town but really, in the best way possible. Everyone's English is excellent, and the road are well-built, connected by timely buses. The streets are safe, and the shokudo are both peaceful and hospitable, giving you a taste of traditional Japanese and temple life. I do love an off-the-map experience, but thank goodness for the cable car.