Matsui - Torrance

It can't be easy to share a parking lot with Musha and Torihei. Constantly dwarfed by two powerhouses serving up small plates both stunning and spectacular, Matsui can come across as just a little bit boring.

But boring isn't always a bad thing, and boring doesn't always mean being bored. Boring can also be fun, like the confident cold Tanuki Soba. The light broth sits in a casual earthenware jug, and the tempura bits give al dente soba a happy crunch.

The Una Don is just a sweet slab of eel over a warm bowl of rice, but the eel is perfectly tender, the rice is just right, and the combination carries a feeling of familiarity, flawless like a favorite routine.

The Ten Don scores a ten out of ten on the tempura scale. The long-tailed shrimp and variety of veggies are deep-fried to perfection in an impossibly light batter dissolving in an even lighter soy sauce dip.

There's a sweet, simple comfort in the mundane, and Matsui's sweet simplicity can set right a day gone wrong. If you're looking for a creative meal that excites, Matsui probably isn't the place for you, but if you want your Japanese favorites executed to perfection, Matsui is where it's at.