Friday, November 15, 2024

Ali’i Hawaiian Grill - El Segundo

I ordered from the Torrance location two years ago and let’s just say I wasn’t running back for more. Yet this place holds its spot on an Eater LA list year after year, and when the El Segundo location showed up on my Doordash, I had to try again to see what the fuss is (still) about. 

I’m not one for gambling because I never win, but this was a chance worth taking. It wasn’t a cheap venture, but you get what you pay for, namely the South Bay’s best poke, now tied with my personal fave Jus Poke in Redondo Beach. 


The tuna here is red and dense, lean and meaty, flavor immense. The Hawaiian is simple, mostly limu to sprinkle the sea into these ruby red chunks. You can’t hide behind a sauce this simple, and the tuna is undoubtedly fresh-off-the-boat. Spicy Ahi has a fantastic sauce, a spicy mayo that kicks with little pearls of roe to make it rich.


The Garlic Shrimp poke is not to be ignored - the shrimp are plump and the palest pink, just barely cooked so the texture is incredibly tender. 

Just skip the side of potato salad - it’s bland.


The Kalua Pork is a curiosity - can they cook as well as they can procure? Not really, no. The pork is very juicy but it’s heavily salted and that’s all there is. As for the sides, the smoked potatoes are alright. OTOH, I never have and never will understand Salmon Lomi, and this one is no exception. I can kinda taste the influence of fish if I imagine really hard, but I can’t see any actual fish and it seems to be just a pico and not a very good one.

Go for the poke, go often. Skip all the other stuff, eat all the tuna end don’t skimp on the shrimp. 

Asadero Chikali - Inglewood - Taco Tour #13

Lucky number 13, fabulous tacos from LA land near the South Bay, just a Doordash away from my house.


Coal-kissed Carne Asada is the way to go, and t
he Barbacoa is good as well.


And Pastor is also alright. 

The tacos come unadorned, just meat in a tortilla with side bags of pickled onion, diced onion and cilantro, shredded cabbage, and salsa to choose your own adventure. 

The Asada Burrito is probably the most bang for your buck. Generously stuffed, this beauty is at least half meat. The rest is a bit of rice and beans that don’t want for flavor.


Break away from the grill to get a
 Guisado Sampler if you’re craving the thicker stew. It’ll be the least attractive plate you’ve ever seen, but it could be the most interesting. It’s worth getting at least the uniquely textured chicharron. Thick strips of semi-gelatinous sponge soak up a tomato-pepper stew that pops and makes you pause. The other guisados are good too but a bit interchangeable, IMO.

They say it’s the rice that makes the sushi, and here it’s the tortilla that makes the taco. These handmade beauties are thin and oh-so supple. I wish they’d let you order extras via DoorDash - I’d pay a premium for a pile of possibly the best tortillas I’ve ever eaten. 

If the list of best new restaurants by both Eater LA AND Thrillist didn’t convince you, I highly doubt I can, in which case I’m not sure why you’ve actually read this far. And I don’t care. If you can’t appreciate these tortillas, you’re an idiot. 

Oh My Burger - Gardena

I think I am the most hardcore transplant I know, removing my southern roots, rejecting my northeastern dreams to marry a Malibu boy and settle down in the South Bay. 

Turns out, SoCal is my sweet spot, and I can honestly say I don’t miss much about the south, but I do get nostalgic for a Cook Out Burger and a too-strong-for-a-straw shake from their entire-panel menu of flavors. There’s been nothing quite like Cook Out here.  

Enter Oh My Burger. They’re very different, TBH, but there’s something about their essence that reminds me of that boxy drive-thru of my college days, something about the spirit of fun and the dedication to making a damn good burger. 

And Oh My Burger’s burgers are actually good, in fact, they are fantastic. Wrapped in a paper sleeve with one side open, they have that In n’ Out appeal, but these patties are in a league of their own. No detail too small; gorgeous grains of ground brisket form patties so thick it’s like two from any other place, and the inside is so juicy it’ll run down your chin. Perfectly seasoned, with a peppery finish, they’re also dotted what looks like a fine specks of mustard seed. 


There are plenty of tempting options if you’re dying for some decadence, but I’m not sure I really want grilled cheese for bread or donuts for buns. Instead, just simplicity is spectacular in the form of a Real Damn Cheeseburger, which is just good cheese and a brioche bun with a crust of cheddar. 


At a place called “Oh My Burger” you might feel wrong ordering something like a Pastrami Chili Cheese Taco but your hangover will thank you. My brain tells me that this combination can’t be good, but my tastebuds tell me it’s the right kind of wrong.  


Come for the burgers but try a Fried Chicken Sandwich if you’re feeling it. The fry is super crispy, even after a Doordash ride, and the honey garlic gives it a zing. 


There’s a decent list of shakes, lots of cheesecake, and one Peach Cobbler. This one is a fun one, with plenty of cinnamon and the pie crust in the mix, though I did wish I could taste a bit more peach. 

At the end of the day, OMB is all about decadence, but it’s decadence with perfect execution. I can’t speak for the more extreme options but these giant burgers and elaborate tacos do hit a sweet spot and scratch that hedonistic itch.  

Emma Habesha - Inglewood

Another Ethiopian place within doordashing range?? Just when I think my life can’t get better, here comes Emma Habesha. 


Their Doro Wot is delicious, some sweet and sour nuances, plenty of depth to the sauce. I do wish it was a bigger portion, but two drums and an egg seems standard - I just want more of the good stuff.


Awaze Tibs are alright as well, tender beef but not quite the punchy, memorable burn that you get from Queen of Sheba. 


The Veggie Combo is so fresh and so clean, the collard greens in particular. The other items are as expected, straightforward lentils and whatever. A bit bland but not a bad option for lighter sides. 

At the end of the day, I think I prefer Queen of Sheba. The flavors of Emma are mostly faultless, but a bit too clean so that they feel almost sterile.

The Guinep Tree Jamaican Cuisine - Gardena

They were out of oxtails; strike 1. Maybe it was because we ordered on a Sunday night, but that was the one thing I wanted. Plus if you only offer five dishes, running out of 20% of your menu isn’t cool.

The plantains were BAD; strike 2. Papery dry and devoid of flavor, they finish like a thick Manila folder. 


The Stew Chicken was stewed so soft that you could practically bite through the bones. A warm, homey flavor, but the gravy had an incredibly off-putting gelatinous texture, likely due to the addition of too much thickener or the consequence of being left in the pot to congeal. 


The Curry Goat was good enough but wouldn’t win any awards. And not nearly good enough to offset all the other issues. Very tender meat, curry on the salty side but that depends on your  palate.

I was so excited about a Jamaican joint in Gardena as it’sa lot more accessible than Inglewood, but it seems the new kid on the block needs to iron out the kinks. I’d give them another chance if they ever find their footing, but I wouldn’t risk it anytime soon.

Thursday, October 10, 2024

Barsha - Hermosa Beach

The coolest restaurant in the South Bay, the best in the Beach Cities. The nondescript strip mall it sits in is hardly anyone’s aesthetic, but venture inside for a memorable menu and soak up the unbeatable vibe. There’s only ceiling fans beating in the beach breeze, and they frequently blow out the mood-lighting candles that illuminate every table. Our servers fight a valiant but losing battle, lighting and relighting ours with every change of plates, even when we tell them there’s no need for such trouble. Service is that dedicated and is rendered with a genuine warmth and merriment that shows this place is built on joy. 

And the plates are joyful as well. Starters are strong, as the Hand of Fatima kicks off our meal with five fingers of fabulous, and we soon find out that everything on the menu really is that good. 


My faves here are the aromatic, herbaceous pesto and the rich and salty tapenade. The other fingers are loaded with juicy olives, earthy harissa or a creamy-smooth hummus, all of which are delectable when caught by the tiny tines of crusty bread. 


The sides are as strong as standalone dishes, approachable items like Sumac Shishitos, which have a bitter, tangy finish punctuated by vivacious wedges of preserved lemon with an almost-candied peel. 


Zaatar Fries are crisp and fryer-fresh, generously dusted with an earthy, herbal mix. 


All of our entrees are hot plates of hearty comfort, starting with the a warm and stewy Beef Cheek Cous Cous. Every chunk of melt-in-your-mouth meat is saturated with a tomato-pepper soak, texture added by grainy bits of couscous and shreddy strips of squash.


Lamb Meatballs are big flavor-bombs, crispy crust sheltering tender meat, meeting fat globules of m’hamsa for a clever contrast of textures. 


Gumbo was that night’s special, a dark roux with 
shrimp, crab, andouille sausage, and seasoned with a Tunisian twist. The shrimp are succulent, the crab adds a sea-breezy base to give everything else a flavor boost, and a giant fried okra has a breading that beats all breading.


Dessert is another special, my personal favorite of all desserts; the Bread Pudding. Soft, sweet, gooey, creamy, drizzled with caramel, it’s everything you’d ever want. 

Don’t let my photos talk you out of eating at Barsha. Between the poor lighting and the monochrome colors of meat and tomato, it’s hard to tell what we even ate. But believe me when I say the flavors are anything but dull. The spices mixes are perfection, the flavor combinations are complex and feel so complete - I can’t think of a single element missing from any dish, and every plate has an incredible beauty and warmth. I guarantee the food at Barsha will amaze you, in a way that defies description.

Cafe Cuba & Cakes - Hawthorne


So this is what Potato Balls are supposed to taste like. Still warm from the Doordasher’s car to my doorstep, these wonder-balls boast a super-crispy breaded crust which encases a firm layer of mashed potato, shielding a moist and well-seasoned ground beef core. Perfect spheres, packed with flavor, absolutely spectacular.


Sandwiches are another specialty here, especially the deceptively simple Cubano. It’s a layered ham and cheese, but the slices of roasted pork, smear of smooth mustard and interspersed bits of pickle give it a subtly elegant finish. 


The Bistec de Milanese features a very tender cutlet, but it seems less exciting as it comes across a bit blandly. More tang to the onion and pepper mix would have made all the difference.


Pan Con Lechon, what a luxury. A roll stuffed to the gills with roasted pork is so filling and full of comfort. The pork just has milder garlic notes, but the the tenderness and texture are so good I don’t mind it having less punch. That said, if you add a dash of whatever hot sauce you have at home, the result is bound to be better, 

I’m sad you can’t Doordash the desserts, but I’m quite happy with the sandwiches anyway. They’re a good size and a fair price, and despite being packed full of protein, they’re quite well-balanced. Would definitely eat these again.