Mercado Manhattan Beach UPDATE - Manhattan Beach

The original location closed not too long ago, and I can understand why. This food must have taken Santa Monica by storm when it first opened, but these tried-and-true tidbits have given way to a Mexican food movement that encompasses a lot more creativity and a deeper dive into the food of the streets and homes. 

Say what you will about authenticity, but the food here is good, despite feeling a little more sterile. 

Manhattan Beach brings an element of ritz I don't much enjoy, but complain as I might, classics like Guacamole always hit. The avocados are a rich, ripe green without the slightest hint of brown, and the ratio of avo to acid is on point. Perfectly crispy chips dip divinely into both the guac and the smoky salsa. 

A side of Elote is splendid simplicity, just flame-kissed corn with butter and cheese. There's still so much flavor you just keep eating. 

If there's any sign of gentrification, it's this California Burrito. Pastor-marinated chicken is so white and watery and bland, and the lettuce waters it down so it's both soggy AND bland. 

That said, the Dos Gringas are great. Those pastor bits are juicy beneath a hot and crispy crust, and these tacos are so savory they require little else. Even the side of squash is perfectly seasoned and grilled, and the cilantro lime rice is good enough to eat by itself. 

Churro Ice Cream is accurate, but I don't know if I'd get it again. I think I'd rather just have a freshly-fried churro.

Flan is fantastic, super creamy, exactly right. 

Nothing I haven't had, but sometimes you want to know exactly what you're going to get. Mercado isn't all that exciting but it is solidly reliable and quite delicious.