I've been dreaming of the Specialty Dynasty XLB for years. Eight brightly-colored bao-gems twinkle inside a gleaming bamboo steamer, holding all the promise of flavors both creative and crazy-good. A quick comparison of the menu photos vs mine is clearly Instagram vs reality, but several exceeded my flavor expectations if not the aesthetic ones.
The original flavor houses a beautiful broth of pork, all sweet simplicity and subtlety, adding up to utter perfection. Black truffle adds the earthy, maximum umami quality, the crab meat with roe adds seafood-sweetness. I didn't expect to like the cheese, but it's absolutely addicting with its mildly salty, creaminess to enhance the tender pork. Garlic is pungent and bold but not so much it dwarfs the soup. Gotta love garlic to love this particular bao. Szechuan has that mild chili flavor with a bit of numbing spice, just enough to add the flavor, but not so much it takes from the pleasure. Kimchi is just as nice, but I'm not sure either of these needs to be here. I AM sure BBQ Pork does note. I had hoped it would be chashu but no, it’s the generic American barbecue sauce you get from a grocery-store plastic (not even glass!) bottle, watered down and warm.
I didn't love all the sampler, but I did love trying all the flavors. I'm glad there's only one of each, though, as most are too rich to have more than one or two, and others not good enough to have even one.
Everything else is clean, attractive Asian fare. My favorite is the White Shimeji Mushroom tossed with Spicy Garlic Vinaigrette, which has the chef's-kiss sauce of slightly-spicy, sour, sweet, and savory.
My least favorite is the "special" Fried Calamari, with its barely-detectable seasoning, a sprinkle of seaweed, and a mayo-based sauce that added no salinity.
The Prawn and Korubuta Pork Wonton in Chili Oil has no flaws, but no one can beat Din Tai Fung's amazing sauce.
The Fried Pork Chop is just so thin and crispy. Great with rice, good enough to eat alone.
Even the chicken stir fried noodles are great - perfect texture and taste.
Dessert is a Salted Egg Yolk Custard XLB, which is less salty than I'd want, less eggy than I'd expect, but a lovely, gooey, texture which is pretty hard to hate inside those perfect, paper-thin wrappers.
Black Sesame Mochi has a subtle sweetness and just the right consistency. It's an apt ending and one that doesn't leave you feeling over-sugared but also hardly a standout.
I swore I'd try to see Paradise Dynasty as an individual, but the similarities to the world-famous, now SoCal staple Din Tai Fung are not so easy to ignore. Both serve consistently delicious food that's made correctly, and although anything made correctly is made well by default, it also lacks the character of the perfectly imperfect home cooked meals found in the small shops of the SGV. I'd recommend trying the XLB sampler here because you won't find this level of creativity anywhere else, but when I have a choice, I always prefer the mom-and-pop meals that are less crowd-pleasing but much more memorable.