RockN' Fish - Manhattan Beach

I can't get enough of the exotics. Tasting the forbidden fruit, following the new frontiers of food is a roller-coaster rush as the taste buds toil between love and hate, challenge and confusion. But some days I ache to go back to basics. I long for a swig of something staple, a bite of nothing bold.

Restaurants like Rock'N Fish rock the classics, starting with an approachable wine list served in triple-size glasses and culminating in a couple of cute Crab Cakes and a solid Surf'N Turf. The crab is simply perfect; sweet, barely-breaded shreds that are surprisingly filling next to Shoestring Fries and a side of Spinach.

The Surf'N Turf combines the cravings of starving surfer and ravenous landlubber alike, with a dense sirloin and juicy Maine lobster tail side by side. The Grilled Asparagus is a sure thing, and the Creamed Corn is a guilty pleasure.

But not nearly as guilty as the fluffy pillow they call Sticky Toffee Pudding. Not even the slightest bit sticky, but sweet as sugar and lighter than air.

I love the classics, but a really good classic will cost you. You pay a Manhattan Beach premium at Rock'N Fish, but the seaside prices are far from outlandish. The ambiance has the buzz of casual-yet-fun sophistication, the service is irreproachable, and bank account aside, there's really no good reason not to go.