My last meal in New York, and I managed to squeeze in one more Michelin star because Estela, unlike most of its fine dining counterparts, actually knows how to do a lunch.
Same stuff, smaller menu, so you get a few of the highlights that put this place on the World 50 Best map. But don't google it - there are many snide articles about how Estela doesn't deserve to be there.
Immediately these buttery Oysters with just the right hint of brine are elevated by a beautiful yuzu kosho mignonette. I know the quality of the oyster is what matters most, but this mignonette is worth a mention.
Why so many haters? Have they tried the Tuna? Surely this cured-meat masterpiece alone could catapult a chef to international acclaim. Stunningly red and raw, this heart-shaped presentation is a plate after my own heart. Smear on the pil pil, which has a depth of flavor dark as the night. It enhances that beautiful gooey texture of the tuna and makes those flavors pop, and it gets all over your lips so you can see what you'd look like if you decide to go goth.
This enterprising Endive dish looks like just a salad, but load up those boats with walnuts and this fragrant and fruity ubriaco rosso cheese, and it is transcendental. Savor every bit of crispy anchovy you encounter, and use your spoon to scoop up that oil-juice on the bottom.
Warm, tender Lobster lays in a sauce that lingers with an herby high. Woodears are a brilliantly unexpected addition, and the texture adds magic to the lobster and grapes.
Fried Arroz Negro: how much can you get out of crispy rice? It's beautiful, and it's so much more than I could imagine. The rice has a crunchy crust, contrasting tendrils of tender squid, and the romesco isn't much, just enough to bring out the full savory notes.
The Wagyu Steak is their most traditional dish, two perfect cuts of a perfect cut of meat, one concealed beneath a leaf and shavings of a bolder cheese. I don't need the veg, but the beets are lovely.
Estela. Elegant yet daring, demure but dashing, understated but oh-so-bold. The flavors are enticing, and the balance between classic and creative makes every bite mesmerizing. I would come back to NYC again JUST to have lunch at Estela.
No comments:
Post a Comment