Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Lulu’s Restaurant - Los Angeles

I don't love surprises, but I love the ever-changing menu from Alice Waters' latest creation. Every day you have to wait, with no way of knowing which farmer's market offerings will make the next menu. 


You don't come here for the coffee, but sipping a picture-perfect Cortado and Cappuccino in an art museum is an irresistible magic. 


Cleanse the palate with an amuse of olives, rich and robust, a perfect prequel to the first course. 


A small circle of Baked Sonoma Goat Cheese is sweet and creamy, cut by crouton crumbs. Let the crumbles coalesce with the surrounding leaves of mixed lettuce, laced with oil and dancing balsamic, the freshest salad you'll ever eat. 


A White Bean Soup has notes of savor in an earth, thick puree, and drops of chili oil add a gentle lift to a dense dish. 


A Spicy Eggplant Banh Mi is substantial, the tenderest of eggplants between bites of potent pickles. 


The prix fixe plate has an incredibly soft grilled chicken, dripping juice. The asparagus is still almost crispy, the potatoes are just peerless, and even the lightly pickled pink lettuce is something to remember. All can be dipped in the tart lemon aioli and all should be dipped in the tart lemon aioli on the side. 


A Brown Butter Almond Cake would have gone best with one of those coffees, an uncomplicated concoction of nutty, crumbly cake. 


Chocolate Pave is simply a square of cake without flour, showcasing a pure chocolate without the distraction of milk.

My descriptions do no justice to the full and forgotten flavors of fresh vegetables and fruit farmed honestly and sustainably. There is a refreshing transparency in what they serve, no strong sauces to drown in, no fluff to hide behind. It's an exercise in honoring prime ingredients in their purest form, and through this, they make the most beautiful meals. 

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