Agua Clara Diving - Tulum, Mexico

I kind of rolled the dice when I picked Agua Clara. I didn't know anything about any of the diving companies, and Tulum has too many. They seemed genuine in their correspondence; effective, efficient, and on top of their sh*t. Because you need the person packing your oxygen tank to be all these things, no exceptions.

Niko is just that, and he's one of the best dive masters I've had. He knows how to teach, and he knows how to be a teacher. His talent is one that can't be taught; an intuition that allows him to give just the right combination of instruction and room to (literally) breathe. 

It's Justin's second discover dive, and they charge me as an add-on so that we can dive together. Agua Clara is flexible and accommodating, and they're perfect for the indecisive. They offer a combo pack of dives; one cenote and one reef. 

The cenote is a bucket-list item, though I'm not a fresh water fan. I imagine cave diving is different world, though I prefer to pass on the danger. We get thick wet-suits to brave the cold, and the water is as clear as a cloudless sky.

There are no reefs to see, and there are fewer fish, but the rocks and roots cast an air of mangrove mystery.

And there is the laziest crocodile in the world at the end of the dive. They named him Francisco because he never moves from that spot and can always be counted upon to appear.

Next step: the reefs. Glad to cross cenote off my list, but there is nothing more beautiful than a vibrant reef. Niko chooses a spot where the rock and coral converge into mini caves, full of arches and narrower passage to swim under and through. 

It's my first time diving and shooting with a GoPro, and I learn to acclimate to the anxiety of it all. It's an expensive toy to lose, and I'm white-knuckling the waterproof case. But there is a meditative zen to diving, and despite being terrified of water, I love the quiet of the briny depths, where I can only hear myself breathe. 

I only get to dive once a year, and this one was a real treat. Agua Clara is a great company to work with, and if you're trying to dive, Niko is your guy.