A slow Sunday night, winding down a weekend. A beach breeze blows, as we breeze into Bettolino Kitchen. I've wanted to try this place since it opened, one of the first of many new kids on the fancier blocks of Redondo Beach Riviera.
A kitchen with potential, that much is true. I usually skip the salad, but they had a Figs & Zola, and I was weak. The greens are a sharp mix, and there are slices of not-the-sweetest figs chillin' on cool pears. Gorgonzola brings its gentle pungence to a sweet smatter of caramelized walnuts. The ability to make a perfect salad is very underrated. This one has balanced proportions of all ingredients, so each bite is as colorful as the last, and the shallot vinaigrette dressing enhances rather than hides.
The Pomegranate Apple jives just as well; arugula is delicately bitter against crunchy pomegranate, and goat cheese brightens a tart Granny Smith. Avocado adds smooth substance, and the a simple balsamic pulls it all together. Bettolino Kitchen may be the first restaurant that doesn't overdo the dressing.
By the beach, from the ocean. The Calamarata is a clever concept, al dente pasta that mimic the calamari ring. The actual calamari tastes a bit fishy, but the white wine sauce works well enough with the clammy brine.
Heavy and hearty comes next with Tagliatelle all'Antica. The pasta is perfect, but there isn't enough, and the duck is weighed down by olives and tomato. Love all the pasta, just meh about the sauce.
It's A-OK, Bettolino Kitchen. Italian comfort, great salads, good pasta. I'll keep looking for better because I know there's plenty, but Bettolino Kitchen isn't bad.
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