Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Utterly Umami Burger – Santa Monica


When I think of a burger, a manly meat-pie comes to mind. This grease n’ juice dripping smashed-together sandwich of coarsely-ground beef that some big burly chef used his bare hands to pack is very much America's culinary baseball and football, a primitive yet undoubtedly awesome tradition.



If my Truffle Royale became a tradition, it would shake the very foundations on which our great nation was built. Sure the burly, beefy patty drips both fat and juice, but not when topped with a luxurious, over-the-top toppings that blend into a seamlessly smooth savor. The cheese was also too creamy to showcase the truffle, and the soft caramelized onion and aioli only added to the cohesive goo. Even the shredded texture of short rib barely shone through. With all so many stand-out ingredients, this package possesses a frightening amount of finesse.



If you thought the burger wasn't manly enough, steer clear of the sides. The Fried Pickles were so finely battered they were thinner than tempura, and this was one appetizer you can get at any table…in any restaurant. Even the Manly Fries failed to conjure an iota of masculinity. First of all, there is just nothing manly about thin fries. And these fries were so thin, they were actually called thin fries. The toppings were tasty, but the beer cheese just didn't have that brewed bite to it. The bacon and fried onions were whatever, and the main problem with topping thin fries is that all the toppings just slide right off.


I’m torn about my feelings for Umami Burger. Despite the dynamic ingredients, all these flavors blend together into a smooth, seamless luxury, with a refinement that is both unexpected and unparalleled. Sure you still get the grease-dripping, multiple-napkin-needing faceful you were looking for, but there’s something about a fire-grilled, partly charred, coarsely-ground eat-it-with-a-beer burger from years of campfires and grills that makes you crave that kind of crude. And if that’s what you’re craving, you sure as heck won’t get it from Umami Burger.

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