It's 11:45 AM on a Wednesday, and there's already a one-hour wait. And judging by the placement of benches in every occupiable space, this is the scene here. Every single day.
The seater confirms this, saying she arrives on time every morning to push through the already-forming throng of hungry souls at the door.
Alright, I get it. It is ALL about the ambiance. The big circular booths just radiate laughter and joy, and the counter is full of people coalescing over coffee and devouring their dinner while reading the morning paper.
I love me some chicken wings, and the lunch entree comes with five. The meat is tender, and the fry is right, but I'm not sure they're quite as good as Pann's. The sides, though, the sides you have to try. The collard greens are great, especially for those who can't stand the pulpy texture. Theirs leaves the leaves cooked, but the light touch keeps them leafy, and they also lack the bitter aftertaste that can often follow.
Grits are good, and they go great with the Wednesday Oxtail special. The meat is impossibly tender, cooked so long that even the stuff on the bones is gooey goodness made to be gnawed right off. Sadly, the gravy is SO salty, so much so that I have to scrape it off the meat, and the tablespoon of hard rice beneath is hardly going to balance. This is where the grits will save you as they provide the starch you need to soak up the salt.
The mac and cheese is just what you want - soft without being mushy but has a little chew to it. Candied Yams came highly recommended, and they're just so satisfyingly sweet.
The Cornbread is super buttery but mine was a little bit dry.
Serving Spoon has had a lot of hype on Eater, and with this visit, my curiosity has been sated. I think that publicity is causing them to overextend themselves a bit, and it shows in the seasoning, but I appreciate them all the same. Just being there is a happy thing, and I would still go back just to eat up some more of that joy.
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