Animal masters the meat and Jon & Vinny’s canonizes the carbs. Son of a Gun sails the seas, proving Shook and Detolo a jack of all trades.
Hokkaido Uni is a fancy ingredient to carry on a menu this extensive, and the pairing with burrata is as genius as it is unexpected. The creamy neutrality of the burrata extends the sweetness of the uni, filling an impossible space with explosive flavor.
A few fillers, including French Fries with a malt vinegar aioli that is irresistible.
They taste even better with Pimento Cheese Dip. The cheddar is sharp, and the pepper tastes red-roasted.
They do a nice Caesar Salad as well. Covered in parm, a step before smothered in a creamy dressing.
There's a Lobster Roll, more deconstructed and a lot smaller in size than expected, bigger in flavor that I could predict. Toasted brioche bun beneath highlights the sweet meat and brings out the citrus.
A cold sandwich, now a hot one. The Fried Chicken Sandwich has a soul-shaking crunch as the rooster aioli crows.
The theme seems to go south, with fried chicken followed by a Nashville Hot Soft Shell Crab. The crab is fresh, and the breading is nice, but it could have used a bit more hot paste, bless its heart.
A surprise winner, the Country Ham. It's cured and sliced so thin you see straight through, and all that fat does wonders when it's wrapped around plump little hush puppies.
The Linguine & Clams came earlier and last. Big uni notes laced with garlic and a thick coat of paint-on cream, little clam-knots of perfect brine, and chili notes to make them go pop. The sauce goes so fast you have to get a second order to keep the peace.
What, even, is this place? It's trying to be a seafood shack with the makings of a Michelin star, and the Bib Gourmand is well-deserved. Their seafood has a creative edge, and the land selections are surprisingly good. Surely a place to visit, certainly a place to visit again.
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