As my friend Jody would say, we are suffering from an unfortunate and incurable condition, the physically limiting, mentally devastating affliction known as O.L.D. The physical effects are pretty self-explanatory - nothing is quite as perky as it used to be, we can't drink as much as we used to, and we no longer recover from...anything...in a timely manner. An emotional or psychological effect of O.L.D. is stubbornness, and we both have that in spades. We're getting set in our ways, doing the same things we love, over and over again. One of those things is Marugame Monzo.
They are one of the last of their kind; noodles houses that persevere in making their own udon. They excel at everything, and their every combination of ingredients over their flawless udon makes for an instant wow. The Sea Urchin Udon occupies its rightful place on the list of things to try in LA before you die, the white cream sauce is like a hot, thicker creme fraiche, and it oozes over so many triangles of orange uni roe. The roe itself is so fresh you'll want to eat it quickly before the sauce cooks it any further.
The goal is to try something new every time, and this Mentai Squid Butter Udon is a lighter alternative if you're feeling a broth of butter instead of heavy cream. This one has a more fishy finish with supple slices of squid, and the sauteed onions lend their sweetness.
Their non-noodle apps and sides are also strong. Even the Fried Chicken is exquisite. The battering is golden with a gratifying crunch, and the seasoning is the right mix of salt n' pepper.
Discovering Marugame Monzo was like finally going into the antique store you've been wanting to check out and choosing a pretty, affordable piece of art that you didn't know was a masterpiece. Marugame is an easy-to-miss minimalist of a stall-like restaurant, modest about its mastery. There's always a line down the street, but hey, some noodles are worth freezing for.
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