Go Go Bird - Culver City

It's not often you see the chef slinging his own food after receiving critical acclaim, but at Citizens Public Market, chances are, you'll get your chicken handed to you by Brandon Kida himself.  

I don't know the man, but I feel like we're on a first-name-basis after biting into some wings. The meat is chicken that tastes the way chicken should taste when quality takes priority. The breading is spectacular, an even, ultra-crispy coat with real zing and a warm burn that lingers long and slow. I think the chili oil that holds the warmth and galvanizes the flavor of a signature spice mix so unique, I swear it's a piece of Brandon's soul. We've all had hot chicken, but this one has a balance of spicy, sweetness, and tang that's unlike any other. Try it with all the sauces, too. Every single one is a standout. 

If you can't take the heat, don't get out of the kitchen, just get the Cheddar Biscuits too. Fluffy, flaky squares with a hundred overlapping layers are drizzled with condensed milk and dusted with miso powder, a combination of sweet, salty, savory, and the slightest bit of sour that creates an entire experience. 

I have had so much fried chicken from so many places that I didn't think I could be surprised anymore. But gogo to Go Go Bird and you just might feel like you're seeing it for the first time.

Bang Bang Noodles - Culver City

I heard they've closed, and I've never been sadder. 

Their Shanxi belt noodles have a fabulous texture, chewy and thick. They're long and large, wide and in charge, but there's a deftness to be detected, and precision in creating those slightly curled edges and perfectly textured middle. Szechuan Garlic is the classic, mala meshing with slices of tendon-marbled soy-sauce beef and aromatic leaves of celery and cilantro. 

I can't comment on the authenticity of the Xi'an Tomato, but something doesn't sing. It's very sweet as expected from the south, but the tomato, ground pork, and bok choy are all quite bland, with no detectable seasoning otherwise. The noodles are still delicious, but this dish needs something more. 

Despite the un-exciting tomato, those noodles have me hooked. I'd drive to DTLA for another bowl of the Szechuan garlic - they're absolutely worth another visit.

Cafe Knotted - Los Angeles

What defines a donut? Wikipedia says it's a pastry made from leavened fried dough, and I'm pretty sure for most people, the word conjures a torus with a hole. Krispy Kreme is probably the most donut of the donuts, but the more I try the offerings elsewhere, the less sure I am about what it takes to be one. 

Cafe Knotted, South Korea's most popular interpretation, is one of those places that makes me question everything I thought I knew about the yeasty eats. Not so much a donut, but more like a sandwich of cream, their seasonal Fresh Strawberry features a seamless cream to ensconce sour slices of very fresh fruit between two fluffy slices of donut dough. There's a jam version as well, which is supposed to be their signature. 

Others are more familiar, one filled with sweet-no-sour Lemon Curd custard and a Dubai Chocolate full of crunchy pistachio practically-pudding. 

I've discovered that I'm not a donut person, but I can appreciate any sweet. At Cafe Knotted the donuts are as memorable as they are unique, and for that alone, they're worth a few tries. Maybe next time I'll sit down with a cup of coffee and a croissant.  

Bombay Tandoori & Banquet UPDATE - Torrance

I might not have thought much of their take-out, but the lunch buffet is where it's at!

Get a plate and then get more until you just can't anymore. It's quite a selection of both vegetarian and not, plenty to eat, lots to like. 

Start by ordering a mango lassi - they're included with the buffet, and make sure they drop off a steaming basket of garlic naan - it's some of the best I've had to date. It's pleasantly chewy, nicely fluffy, and super fresh.

There are too many dishes to remember, and this plate holds maybe a third of all that they offer. The samosas are just okay, but their fish pakora is pretty good. Goat curry is my fave, and you can bet I went back for thirds. Spinach saag is just okay, chicken tikka masala as well. I also remember a really good Alu Gobhi - potato and cauliflower combo, and I think there was a channa masala, a veggie masala, a mild daal makhni. The green beans dish was probably my favorite veg, and there's even rice pudding at the end. 

All these complaints about inflation, but here, for less than $20, you can still get all the delicious comfort food you can eat.

Havana Mania UPDATE - Redondo Beach

Hubby loves a good sandwich, and their Cubano is one of the better comforts you can Doordash. Lots of roast pork stuffed into a crusty roll, covered in a melted slice of Swiss, dressed with something significantly garlic. A side salad hits the spot and breaks up the big porky bites. 

Lechon Asado is the stuff in the cubano with ok onions on top. The meat is tender, the beans are surprisingly savory, best when eaten in the same bite as the pork and rice. Sweet plantains? Say no more! Not as well caramelized as elsewhere but still my favorite side. 

Is this the South Bay's best Cuban food? Nope. But the sandwich is good, and I've heard it's quite a scene if you're looking for a festive place to sit and party on a weekend night. Will have to try a few other things and update. 

Redwood Pie - Hermosa Beach

How about some crust with character? Pizza has had a heyday thanks to the pandemic DIYs, and it was only a matter of time before sourdough starters seeped their way into pizza crust. Redwood combines these things for a wonderfully airy yet super chewy, sour-finish crust that cradles quality ingredients for a most unforgettable pie. 

The slices take more work than most, as the end-crust tends to require a bit more chewing, but the fragrant finish of an unapologetically obvious sourdough is irresistible. There's no other pizza that tastes like this, a combination both unique AND awesome. 

I'm a monster who's never loved pepperoni, but their Classic Pepp is one of few where I can understand the appeal. These little flavor-bomb circles are full of oil, savor, and salt. They hit the palate hard but in a way that is pleasant. 

I prefer the softer Soppressata, long floppy slices of salami dotted with hits of black olives for extra umami. The red sauce is really smooth, a slightly tangy tomato that abuts the mixture of meat and melted cheese but doesn't intrude.

The white pizzas are a milder contrast to the reds, a swipe of fresh olive oil to highlight the toppings and the cheese. Ricotta adds a rich creaminess to the Bianca to contrast the chewy mozzarella. Spinach and olives cut through the cheesiness and the cream. 

The D-Fresh is bolder with spicy sausage, pungent garlic, and pickled serranos that add a pleasure-burn. Not for those who can't handle heat. 

THIS is what pizza should be. Seemingly understated, straightforward, carefully curated. Not too many toppings, very little noise to distract from a very memorable, totally unforgettable, and utterly addictive pie. 

Mercado Gonzalez - Costa Mesa, CA

Your friendly Mexican neighborhood 99 Ranch has grown up and gotten a glow-up. This ambitious food-market, foodie-hall in Cerritos has immaculately stacked shelves stocked full of staples, interspersed with stalls selling everything from sushi to stew. 

No less than twenty stalls range from practical to downright whimsical, serving hungry shoppers here for the food as well as bored browsers looking for an adorable artisan candle. Indeed this market is as wonderful as it is overwhelming, especially if you aim to sample every stall. 

We didn't make it all the way around, but I'd say it was a pretty good effort. 

Starting with Aguas Frescas Las Delicias, we grab our giant sugar-water fruit drinks to sip while we browse. One something watermelon, the other a refreshing combo of cucumber and something with some tang. All very delicious, all VERY sweet.

Mariscos El Pariente sells several spectacular ceviches, among them the shrimp with mango. The shrimp is unbelievably fresh and you can see the spots where gray turns to pink as it cooks. 

Better still are the Aguachiles, including the dark and smoky rojo which features both scallops and shrimp. There aren't that many scallops so ask for at least a pound. 

Even better is the Aguachile Verde which is bright and pepper-punchy.

A hot and limey Elote from Asados Los Mesquites covered in chili and smeared with mayo and cheese serves as a pre-meal snack.

Guisados Las Cazuelas serves soft stews with sides, like the Costillas con Nopales, which are green and light with a tempting tang. The side of calabacitas con queso is an excellent accompaniment, perfectly cooked, flavorful veggies, not just an afterthought. 

Their best dish is the Chicharron en Salsa Roja, full of rich and savory chunks of fall-apart, skin-on pork. Enjoy nopales guisados on the side - it's refreshing like a salad.

The lighting is bad, but the pound of Goat Birria to go is delightful. La Tapatia Birrieria sells this stuff by the pound, and it's fall-apart tender in a way that only time can make. Stop by the tortilleria to pick up fresh flour tortillas and dinner is done. 

Pasteleria La Gonzalez is probably my least favorite stop in the market. No regrets on the Flan, but the breads go stale too fast.  

Everything looks so pretty: A Concha with custard, a pineapple pastry, a fried dough crusted with sugar, and a very sweet, hard cookie, sticky through all the layers of powdered sugar. They probably taste much better first thing in the morning but they were already stale in the afternoon.  

Churros are the only thing that depreciate faster than a new car after you drive it off the lot so if you're ordering from Churreria El Moro, stick around to immediately eat. They're best when they're hot and crunchy, dunked in some caramel or not at all. 

It's quite the eating extravaganza for a single visit, but I've barely covered half the stalls. The market has some pretty great take-home items as well, including a don't-leave-without-it Pan de Elote and containers of ready-made mole.

What an amazing place. The setup of a food hall with the quality of a restaurant and the prices of a grocery store. I might have to move to Cerritos just to continue shopping here.

Lady M - Los Angeles

Most people wouldn't want to spend their birthday at work, but most people don’t get their birthday cakes from Lady M.

One very generous colleague later, I'm staring at not one, but TWO of Lady M's iconic mille crepe creations. A careful cross section showcases impossibly thin layers of fluffy stacked crepes held together by a lighter-than-air sweet cream. 

Citron is composed of light lemon custard, subtle, with a citrus tang you almost have to imagine. The balance is admirable, the finish, ethereal. 

Dubai Chocolate is trending, and I just had to bite. The real stuff is dense and decadent, the cake is merely a caricature that captures a wisp of the chocolate and crunch. Their cake is half full of silky chocolate cream, topped with layers of pistachio, crusted with signature crunchies. Overall a deliciously delicate creation, but the overall effect is like a whisper of what Dubai chocolate really is.

I cannot complain about a single bite of these two of LA's most amazing cakes. They are not merely made but crafted with a care and precision beyond what should be possible. It's the people that made my 40th sweet, but these cakes did make it that much sweeter. 

Casa Gish Bac - Los Angeles

The only thing better than a plate of barbacoa from Gish Bac is a TRAY of barbacoa from Casa Gish Bac, another of my many birthday treats. 

Chunks of chivo shred at the slightest touch into the tenderest bites, best when doused with a viscous consomme, so full of flavor it should be served as a standalone. 

Molotes make a good appetizer before the main, crispy-shells full of soft potato. Combine with black beans and cheese and for best results, but this is not the reason you come to Casa. 

Memelas float with the fragrance of lingering lard, covered with beans and cheese and a layer of carne, both beef and pork are perfection. 

Get what you like, eat what you will, I'm pretty sure everything is excellent, but come for the barbacoa. They use real goat meat in a recipe that's been perfected through decades and generations, and the consomme is the best liquid I've ever tasted IN MY LIFE. Come here for the food, and don't leave without the barbacoa.

Bake Cheese Tart - Los Angeles

Hokkaido cheese tarts? Say no more! Fluffy, creamy. cheesy, sweet but not so much it negates the tang. The crust is double baked for a contrasting crunch, and the result is a powerhouse of a cheese tart that you can and will eat all day. 

Original is the way to go. A layer of burnt sugar is fun for the Creme Brulee but you don't need it. 

Skip all the fancy things. They're just cheese tarts with stuff on top, none of which actually vibe The coconut is fine if you really love shreds of coconut, but the pineapple upside-down cake is just a few chunks of pineapple with a gross maraschino cherry, and the S'more is a few little marshmallows that go horribly with cheese-based cream. 

TLDR: Cheese tarts not cheap, original is delicious. Avoid all others.

Sodam Boba & Poke Cafe - Torrance

Love poke but hate people? Say no more! Place your iPad order at Sodam and simply sit in silence until they call your name. The staff are a lovely family and happy to help, but the menu features clear photos, rendering interactions minimally necessary for any insistent introverts. 

The poke bowls are huge and shockingly affordable. $12.99 buys a hefty helping of some of the South Bay's freshest fish. Cubes of Spicy Tuna and Salmon gleam red with a sweetly spicy sauce much like Asian chili sauce with a perfect umami of sesame oil. A whole scoop of imitation crab and seaweed salad sit side by side with a generous helping of ripe avocado. All lay on a half n' half bed of salad covered in creamy sesame dressing and a pile of sushi rice. All is seasoned, all is good, but there's just too much sauce for me. 

A simple hack is to get the regular Tuna and Salmon bowl with salad dressing on the side. The poke has a simple sauce; I think I taste a bit of vinegar with sesame and ginger topped with a dash of sesame seeds and seaweed. The bowl is still too big for a single sitting, but the salad and rice can be stretched another day, and without the dressing there's no sauce overload.  

They also have these Okinawa style onigiri, a sandwich-musubi thing for those looking for a surefire hangover cure. I love the idea of the spam and egg, but the nori wrap here is very fishy, which is a bit off-putting with a bit too much spicy mayo in the middle. It's a fun idea, but maybe get the sauce on the side.

Stick to the poke, I think it's the best value here. They have bentos if you want more variety and sushi rolls if you want your poke bowl rolled together for you, but I'd skip the noise and just grab the bowl.