Finally, Fukagawa, the best restaurant I've never tried. Surrounded by South Bay stars like Sweet Rice and Spoon House, Fukagawa's basic menu and classic concept are too easy to overlook.
But forgoing Fukagawa for something seemingly more exciting would be a grave mistake. Subtle can be superior, and here is where it's true. They slay all the staples in a way that is deeply satisfying, with an understated perfection that is dazzling.
Veggie-forward Ohitashi features beautifully boiled spinach, right to the split second where it softens, but before it turns to pulp. None of the sharp leafy flavor is lost, and a salty broth builds that flavor up. Fluttering bonito flakes form a layer of umami.
Dashi Maki is a soaked spiral of dashi that fills every sweet-egg pore.
Nasu Agedashi, same soup as the tofu but darker with a bit more soy to match the deep purple of the eggplant. Each slice is breaded and fried to perfection, and it soaks up the dashi without getting soggy.
Zaru Soba has just the right texture, that gummy al dente that culminates with boiling buckwheat.
The soba jives with a plate of golden brown Eringi Tempura. The deep-fry coaxes every drop of juice from the fat stems so you get a tender flavor-burst of mushroom moisture in every bite.
Saba is the protein to my soba, a meaty mackerel, simply broiled to bring out the firm, fishy flavor.
Mochi ice cream is what it is. Skip it in favor of the freshest Warabimochi, dusted with peanut or matcha. The cubes are so chewy they're like a silky gummy bear; Albanese, not Haribo.
It's rare that a multi-page menu isn't a hit or miss, but at Fukagawa they never seem to miss. They master every element, and they do it quietly - their food speaks soft volumes instead of being loud and proud. So next time you're in Pacific Plaza, eat whatever you like, but don't forget about Fukagawa's flawless food.
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