Mother Wolf - Los Angeles

The dining room is abuzz, even on a Tuesday night, and I think Vanessa Hudgens is sitting diagonally behind us. The decor is pure luxury, like an Italian villa if it were owned by Jeff Bezos. This place wasn't started on a shoestring, and the menu full of fine ingredients is written proof. 

But I am pleasantly surprised at the sweet simplicity of these small but hearty starters. The Suppli Al Telefono are simply breaded croquettes filled with risotto in tangy tomato dotted with savory guanciale specks.

You can see and feel the shreds of juicy oxtail in the Polpette di Coda. The tomato is smoother and more subtle here.

Even their signature special, La Mortazza, is spectacular yet straightforward. A chewy pizza crust doubles over like a pita to pocket paper-thin ribbons of supple mortadella atop a creamy ricotta cheese. The pistacchio adds some crunch to the cream, and lemon agrumato adds a lifting splash of citrus.

The Filetto is what a food critic would describe as a "sleeper hit". The description doesn't sound like much, and it's "just" a cheese pizza. The result, however, is an incredibly satisfying slice. The cheese has stronger, nuttier, slightly pungent notes, and the tomatoes are the sweetest, most sun-kissed I've ever tried. 

Onto the pastas. The cream sauce of the Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe is more like a solid, a shawl around each individual strand. The black pepper is prominent and perks up a heavy base.

Rigatoni All'Amatriciana is floppy folds of textured tubes. A little tomato, a little cream, a little spice, spotted with the crispiest, most fantastically fatty hits of guanciale.

Rigatoncini All Vaccinara; littler tubes covered in shreds of oxtail ragù, a super savory sauce. 

A simple Tagliata Di Manzo makes a simple entree, the most tender and juicy ribeye cap you’ll ever have, full of flavor upon a bed of the most perfectly fried potatoes. These may be the only memorable potatoes I’ve had to date. 

Desserts are not a necessity but they are a delight. Tiramisu features a dense mascarpone and a dark dusting of Madagascar chocolate. 

Limone Gelato is a shocking standout, the sweet citrus of Meyer lemons fully realized. 

Despite the obviously upscale vibe, the Mother Wolf menu maintains a mantle of approachability. You know you're surrounded by millions of dollars of decor made to make you feel rich and fabulous, but there is something about these platters of comfort food with their simple presentation and straightforward assembly that still makes you feel you can gather and talk as you spoon up a smattering of delights. And the best part is, all that food added up to a measly $80 per person as each dish ideal for sharing. 

If I am to compare, I do think I favor flagship Felix for the intimacy and variety of pastas, but I did thoroughly enjoy Mother Wolf. I would still recommend it for those looking for a little glamour with their gastronomy.