Sunday, August 25, 2024

Taira Sushi & Sake - Garden Grove, CA

Imagine walking into a room where you immediately feel at ease. The decor is simple, just a few tables around a lively bar. The chef is an animated man who banters and carries on with his customers, all of whom are clearly friends. They down their sake with rowdy joy, and he toasts them from time to time, all the while skillfully cranking out some of the most beautiful sushi I've ever seen. 

He may be the most creative sushi chef I've seen to date, giving us what is easily the best omakase experience I've ever had. 


I was already worried after the black throat Sea Perch because I couldn't imagine anything better. That plushy, pillow-soft flesh possesses the perfect blow-torch sear, and I've never tasted anything more supple and sweet. 


A meaty Amberjack is seasoned with rock salt and dosed with a dash of yuzu. Citrus cradles the milder meat and salt brings out the butter. 


Halibut is silky smooth, slick with olive oil, heavenly with a sprinkle of truffle salt. Swallow and sit still as the truffle flavor doubles back to engulf your senses. 


Hokkaido Scallop, meaty and mighty, a dab of yuzu pepper adds some zing. 


The Striped Jack is another meatier slice, this one firm but just a little bit gooey. 


The best of both worlds come together in the Chutoro, with robust flavors of lean tuna tempered by globules of fat.


The Raw Octopus is a new one - I've yet to have it prepared this way. Fine butterfly cuts turn a chewy slice of rubber into a soft squeegee, and fragrant basil yuzu makes a mild flavor much more interesting. 


Less mild is the sweet and sensitive Goldeneye Snapper, another incredibly tender cut. 


Salmon can only go so far so let this Ocean Trout take you the rest of the way. Never have I tasted anything so seductively tender and sweet.


Buttery Black Cod flakes under a surface sear, and a topping of onion jelly makes the flavors pop. 


A creamy Hokkaido Uni speaks for itself.


The grand finale is a slice of seared Toro, a light char on the surface that gives way to bursting bubbles of tuna fat, topped with truffle that adds its aroma just when you think it can't get any better than this. 

I have never eaten a 12-piece omakase and wanted to just do it all over again. The flavors are so varied and each piece is so creative that every bite is a new adventure. The novelty keeps you hungry for more, although we only repeated four favorites, I can honestly say there wasn't a single bite that didn't blow my mind. 

I love everything about Taira Sushi; the intimacy, the purity, the amazing talent and creativity of a chef who still has the freedom to serve whatever to whomever he would wish. There's plenty of fish in the sea and lots of sushi in LA and the South Bay, but I would make the drive to Garden Grove in any kind of traffic just to eat this again.

Meizhou Dongpo - Irvine

Another upscale Chinese restaurant, a branch of Century City's most popular (and probably only) Chinese cuisine. 


The service is polite and smiley so you know what kind of upscale experience you're in for, and the dining room is sparkling clean and pretty. Almost as pretty as a platter of half Roast Duck, with those glistening slices waiting to be packed into pancakes. 



I always get Mung Bean Jelly if I can. Mala sauce with sesame and garlic notes slides down slithery slices of gelatin noodle for a lighter appetizer that's more like a salad. 


Bang Bang Chicken sits in a sweet sesame-chili broth with savory peanuts and wood ear mushrooms to add some crunch. Tender chicken, great sauce, even better the morning after when the meat has time to marinate. 


Wok Fried Bamboo Shoots have plenty of flavor in the brown sauce, but some of the shoots are tough and thick. I love bamboo, but this one could be better.  


Be prepared to feast on a deep tureen of Hot Chili Oil Poached Sole Fillet. The slices are fish so tender and covered in that numbing spice that creeps up so subtlety. The fillets are silky and they slide right down, perfect over a side of rice for the sauce to seep over and soak. 

A banquet of a meal, with a huge menu full of food both beautiful and delicately delish. The execution is clean and refined, and they keep the spiciness level approachable so not to overwhelm the lightweights. Great meal, best for special occasions with a bigger party, but good food like this is fit for any party. 

Junbi - Irvine

There's mucha good matcha to be had at Junbi, and nothing is more refreshing than this classic Matcha Latte when you need a cold drink with a caffeine boost. 



The matcha is blended well so it has a smooth finish, not sandy like some of the less refined mixes others make. 


Satisfy your sweet tooth with the Matcha Soft Serve. They keep the bitter finish out without mellowing the matcha too much. Taro vanilla puree makes a great though not entirely necessary topping, no bad choices here. 

Good stuff all around; drinks, snacks, desserts etc. Pretty place for opening a laptop or just having a casual chill. 

Hotel Del Coronado - Coronado, CA

It should be easy to have a good time at a seaside resort, especially when you can livestream your conference while sitting on the beach. 


The Hotel Del seems quite conducive to that, and we did enjoy our basic room in The Cabanas. It's a fine example of practical nicety; plenty of clean white sheets and towels and robes to go around. There's a pool right outside and a beach only steps away, and location is everything here. 

Unfortunately, it seems their best feature is location because the food was horrid. Resort prices are to be expected, and nothing we ate tasted bad, but it seems that their extensive renovations have made room service utterly unavailable. Major points lost here as they did nothing to try to make up for this dire deficit. There are literally only two on-site restaurants that allow to-go orders, and one of them is a taco bar that only makes 5 items. You can ubereats or doordash but you have to physically go pick up your delivery at the front desk, which is in a different building altogether.

The other restaurants are fine dining or pubs/bars so being heavily pregnant with a toddler makes all other options impossible. If you’re anything less than fully able-bodied and extremely energetic, I suggest you stay somewhere else or be prepared to pay a premium for a kitchen so you can bring your own food. 

Still, it's overall a lovely place, and I'd consider a repeat stay for the beach access, but definitely not before the renovations are complete and room service is restored. 



Eno Market & Pizzeria 

Almost all our meals were eaten here, and they have a decent spread. 


The protein wrap is full of fluffy eggs, 


and the English muffin with turkey sausage is a standard sandwich. Plenty of bagels and pastries if you're looking for something simple, and I did enjoy their French Toast Latte every day.


The Italian Sandwich is a nice lunch or dinner,


especially with a Beet Salad, which is absolutely my favorite item here. The beets are roasted to perfection, and the accompanying goat cheese and vinaigrette are great. 


They also make a good Focaccia for dipping if you're looking for something simple and light. 


The Italian Cheese Board comes with generous slabs of varying potencies, and it's plenty for two to share. 


There's plenty of pizza as well, but both are a bit heavy on the cheese. The Funghi has plenty of fresh mushrooms, 


and the Carbonara is an alright mix of prosciutto and pear. 



Beach & Taco Shack

Your only other option if you need food to go. 


The Surf & Turf is a rich mix of brisket and shrimp, plenty of filling to fill you up. 

The Chile Relleno is a good one, though, love the mushroom and pepper combination, especially with flame-kissed corn. 

There's also a Cheese Quesadilla for pickier palates, and it's just cheese melted in a taco, but I can't even complain. 


Achiote Shrimp has tender grilled ones with a nice, perky spice. 

No thanks on the Catch of the Day Taco - the slab of fish is as bland and dry as it looks and tastes like it was the catch of several days ago. 

Not bad for a quick meal or a grab n' go. Just wish this wasn't the only other option. 



Sundaes

Gelato and paletas, sure, what's not to like?

The strawberry paleta was creamy and mild, and you have the option to have them dipped in chocolate, though I think that overpowers the fruit flavors. 


There were chunks of ice in my scoop of strawberry cheesecake gelato, but I thought the chocolate flavor was good, as was the passion fruit and mango sorbets. 

The one thing I really didn't like was that the smallest size is still a double scoop. It's too much ice cream for a toddler, especially one that refuses to share. Still, it's fun to have a place to grab something cold and sweet in summer - I just wish they had some seating.

Vendetta Rossa - Lomita

A new shawarma shop opens in Lomita, and thanks to a generous friend we get to try this Combo Plate. 


And it is alright, just fine. The seasoning is ample on the chicken, though the beef is a bit dry. The yellow rice is fine, the salad is a good side, and I have no real complaints overall. That said, the shawarma is hardly a standout, and I think I'd rather go to Mashawi if I'm in the area. I'd try the kebab if I end up back here again, but I honestly wouldn't choose to come back either.

Monday, August 19, 2024

Colapasta - Santa Monica

Casual Colapasta, a sidewalk cafe serving scrumptious pasta. 


The Squid Ink Bavette fits the beach vibe, with long murky strands mired in a tangy-fresh tomato. Cushions of crab add some sea-sting, and it's a simply lovely combination. 


Our server described the Casarecce al Pesto as a salad, and I don't disagree. The double tube texture holds onto the garden-fresh basil, a pesto pureed so finely you think the pasta itself is green. Cherry tomatoes are popping bubbles of sun-soaked tang, and mozzarella pearls add a supple silk. 


Silkworm shells of Malloreddus alla Campidanese are a savory, sausage-saturated texture of creamy-cheese tomato sauce, with saffron to make the flavors linger. 



Casunziei is sauced tableside, brown butter sizzles on a saucepan and settles into every crevice between the sweet beet-filled ravioli. A better dessert has never existed. 

I don't have much to say about Colapasta - the food speaks for itself. There is something about what they do here that transports you, and for the entire time that pasta touches your tongue, you actually believe you're on a patio in the Italian countryside, twirling your late lunch a fork, watching vineyards as far as the eye can see. The sauces are simple and the flavors so straightforward, yet the sheer skill required to cook so captivatingly clean is anything but. 

Kitakata Ramen Ban Nai - Torrance

There's good ramen every square mile in the South Bay these days, but it seems there's no end to the noodle-soup powerhouses settling in. Kitakata is newest to an already-saturated scene, but cream rises to the top, and their unique and versatile selection will not go unnoticed.


For starters, their wavy-worm hand crumpled noodles are almost Chinese-style in softness and texture, and they pack an incredibly generous serving into every soup. Ask for your noodles cooked less if you're looking for the al dente texture. 


We snagged the last Mizore Yuzu Ramen of the season, and it was a preview of so many good things to come. The broth is savory and full-flavored without being cloying or thick, and the citrus uplifts to keep it light. 


Umakara Tan Tan Ramen is my favorite so far, a creamy pork broth with a spicy kick that's mildly ma-la at a manageable level that adds the flavor without the pain. The little cubes of toro chashu have an ideal ratio of tender meat to gooey fat.

I tried a spoonful of the Spicy Miso Ramen as well, same rich base broth with more of a garlicky hit.


Appetizers are good, not necessary but not undesired. A nice Pan Fried Gyoza has a good pork filling, 


and the Juicy Fried Chicken has plenty of crunch. 

I think Kitakata wins the most versatile award so far. Several creative concoctions with strong showings all around. Every time I come here I leave wanting to try more.

Baran's 2239 - Hermosa Beach

A tiny space with impeccable service, constantly abuzz as drinks and conversations flow. It's not a place to get drunk and rowdy but also not so suitable for intimate heart-to-hearts on a Friday night. But boy, is it a fun place to eat. 

The menu is pretty focused yet impressively varied for a place this size, and service is so attentive; one item at a time with a change of plates after every dish. They must have the fastest dishwasher in town.


I guess the cuisine is "new American", but there's inspiration from all over. Yakitori Meatballs are our opening course, sizable skewered spheres packed with delightfully tender chicken and pork. The charred onion tare is deep and dark, and the crispy chicken skin on top is just a great idea. Unfortunately, someone here has a heavy hand with the salt, more than my palate is primed to tolerate. I recognize that it's a personal preference, but I will say that for me, the more delicate flavors were buried.



My friend declares the Maple Apple Salad the best salad she's ever had, and I don't disagree. The frisee brings the texture and crunch, the radicchio adds a sharp contrast to sweet apples, which jive so perfectly with cheese and sweet pecans. The dressing is very present, and it's exactly the right amount.  



We take a risk with the Blue Crab Spaghetti, which is not their strongest dish. The crab is briny, the sauce supposedly a miso butter with a slight burn and a lot of lemon. A refreshing dish on a summer night, but the amount of lemon overpowers much of the dish. 



The Indian Egg is one of the more creative concoctions I've had to date, and that gooey soft-boiled yolk is divine as it oozes all over. The sausage is heavy on the salt, but if you eat a few cucumber slices in every bite of the lamb and egg, the yogurt tempers the heavy meat, and the cukes neutralize the salinity to make the flavors fuller. 


Salad aside, this Smoked and Fried 1/2 Chicken might be my favorite. The batter is perfectly even and absolutely exquisite, the smokiness permeates every piece, and the soy gastrique is just so good, the chef's kiss balance between salty and sweet. I wish they sold those pickled Fresno chiles by the jar. 


We couldn't resist the Coffee Toffee Pudding, and it is an adorably understated cup of comfort, a not-sweet cream, covering a warm and gooey cake beneath. Whoever sugared this dessert was not the person who salted the food, and I prefer the simplicity for sure.  

I liked it, but there were some mixed feelings overall. Plenty of potential and a couple of standouts, but the salt and the lemon soured the experience some. I do love the concepts and creativity, and I would also like to see a little more polish overall.