There's a truck in a parking lot off La Cienega flanked by folding tables and stools to sit on. The awning is festive and the picture-menu has plenty of picks with a long list of meats.
My first taste of Suadero is here, and there's nothing not to like about the tender white cuts framed with a crispy sear. The flavor is more delicate and very simply seasoned.
Cabeza is all those soft, gooey cheek-bits. Impossibly tender, melts in your mouth.
If you didn't get the Pastor, did you even come to Leo's? They're gorgeous and they're generous, a cross-section of layers stacked in every slice. The meat is smoky and spicy with a hint of sweet to finish, and the pineapple juices make the spice rub come alive.
The red salsa is smoky, the green has a kick and a sweet but manageable burn. The avocado salsa has a creamier tang, and the combination of three is best. Be liberal with the lime and sprinkle some chopped onions and cilantro for sass.
Forget the fine dining, LA's real food scene comes straight from the spit. Taco tycoons like Leo's are what gives us our claim to the best ethnic food in the country. After a taste of these tacos, your new hobby will be chasing trucks.
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