Friday, February 9, 2024

Marche Moderne - Newport Beach, CA

Their menu is long, with just the entrees taking up an entire page. It's usually a red flag for restaurants that can't commit to a few stellar options, and this one falls in line. The range is vast, the choices are overwhelming, and you get a dose of decision fatigue if you think about it too hard. 

From my two-app, two-entree experience, I'm guessing all options are fine and good, but this level of diversity seems to prevent standouts. 


Hamachi Sashimi Grade & Mangue is a good start. Butter, fatty slices of hamachi are pretty in pink, topped with a mango-yuzu-jalapeno sorbet whose ends up being a touch too strong.



Filet Steak Tartare "Barely Touched" is simple, fresh, savory beef, with some horseradish cream, broken up by sharp bites of very pickled cauliflower. 


Homard a la Thai is exactly as it says. Thai-style via the sweet and soupy red coconut broth, which soaks into the firm bed of forbidden rice. The lobster has so much butter, and if you love lobster as much as I do, this will do. 


Duck Confit is a tender leg, meat shredding off the bone with no need for a knife. It's surrounded by a rich red bordelaise. Floppy sheets of caramelized endive accompany the duck, and I can't say I care for these. They appear to be cut quite crudely, draping over the tines of my fork like soggy napkins.  


Between and Pavlova & A Vacherin is a refreshing shot of sugar, with bitter notes of grapefruit gel and ice cream contrasting the airy crunch of meringue. 


I will always order a souffle if it's offered, and the Chocolate Souffle Cake is a fine decision. A lighter gelato calms the rich, melty chocolate that composes what is essentially the original lava cake but better. 

I like it but I don’t love it. It has all the French classics cooked correctly but not well enough to leave a lasting impression. Service was great, and the overall experience is a nice one, but if I'm ever back in this part of town again, I’d probably try some other options first, especially at this price point. 

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