Still chasing tacos with unending enthusiasm.
Next stop: Homestate. Uniquely Tex-Mex, love it or hate it, Homestate serves this conglomerate cuisine with subtlety and style.
True Tex-Mex is a rare find this far from the Lone Star State, and Homestate hails straight from the source. Briana Valdez is a native Texan transplant whose Austin cuisine adds another layer to LA’s already-rich diversity.
The ingredients are pasture-prime, often organic and ethically sourced. “You’re only as good as your ingredients,” said many a chef, and the three-ingredient Blanco is one such example. Juicy shiitakes add the savory to a melty Monterey Jack on a bed of fluffy egg whites. Slather on the salsas for sweet tomato and biting tomatillo.
Less is more when you have a thick paper-thin (no, that’s not a typo), house-made flour tortilla. That chewy texture contrasts the tender inside, especially in the Trinity, with its soft scrambled eggs and chewy bacon. Home-fry potatoes and shreds of slightly-sharp cheddar cheese break up the denser bits of egg.
Breakfast is a gentle start, and the lunchtime proteins pack more punch. An assertive achiote marinade makes the Chicken squawk, the hotter bites cooled by cabbage slaw and guacamole.
Picadillo is salty ground beef in all its juices, potatoes, carrots, and cabbage slaw, perked up by pickled jalapenos. It's not bad but it’s a bit much, and it’s my least favorite of the bunch.
The Potato sounds bland but it's filling and rather refreshing, best for hot, humid days. The potatoes are crunchy and crisp, jalapeños add much-needed acid, and guac is always welcome. There could be less sour cream.
Simplicity is special at Homestate, and it really is about appreciating every part. The tortillas are as good as they get, the eggs are the eggiest of eggs, and every ingredient tastes fresh off the farm. I'd easily eat their tacos again, but I’d stick with the breakfast options for best results.
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