Barrique - Venice

DineLA is my favorite time to dine. Suddenly the unattainable becomes comfortably affordable, and I have an excuse to buy it because it is on sale. I used to go just anywhere, but I've fine-tuned my game in recent years. 

The first thing I look for is a menu that represents the restaurant. Some like to choose cheaper items for the discount menu, but I choose Barrique because it doesn't skimp. 

The Proscuitto e Burrata is my first sample of Antonio Mure's work. The proscuitto is tenderly cured, and it finishes a little sweet. It tastes like a Tuscan villa with vineyards as far as the eye can see, and the burrata tastes like a fresh pail of milk. 

It's easy to make a plate like that when you have access to the best ingredients, but if the Polipo alla Griglia is any indication, Mure can make anything taste good. The octopus is grilled to a light char. It's firm on the outside and soft and gooey in the middle, highlighted by simple salt and smooth aioli.

With a prequel like the polipo, it's hard to be impressed by the mains. But it's hard not be be impressed by the Pappardelle verdi al Ragu di Bisonte. A hearty stinging nettle pappardelle and a meaty, gamey bison bolognese is tangy and strong, with a stimulating tinge of wine at the finish.

The Linguine Nere is another breathtaking plate. It has a beachfront flair with a firmly assertive texture, sweetened by lobster tail. It works well within itself, but I did like the bison better.

I usually stay away from fish because it's so easy to do poorly and so difficult to do well. The Branzine alla Griglia puts all the other fish to shame, a flaky, tender filet grilled to a buttery finish. A blood orange reduction highlights the crispy skin and blends a hint of sweet-n-tart into the flesh.

The end is as rich as the beginning, starting with the Barretta Al Cioccolato, decadent dark chocolate mousse with a highlighting hazelnut crunch.

The Panna Cotta Al Fruitti di Bosco is creamy and light, airy and summer-sweet with sun-ripe berries in dots of coulis. 

I don't love braving the traffic in Venice, but Barrique is worth a trip. Barrique is the very definition of "wine and dine", with a strong selection of wines by the bottle and the glass, and the dining is superb. The outdoor seating area is adorable, the service is as impeccable as it is attentive and polite. It's an enlightening experience from all aspects, and it's one I highly recommend.