Mateo's Mexican Grill – Tulum, Quintana Roo, Mexico

The tamales kept us from killing each other, but the post-plane munchies are strong AF.

Posada del Sol gives us a free upgrade for the first night, thanks to a glorious mix-up, and our room faces an open ocean.

The mosquito-netting canopy cascades in soft waves, billowing in a cool breeze, keeping time with the waves washing up a sandy shore.

When you get into a room like that, it takes a while to leave. It’s pitch dark along the only road by the time we stop staring into the aquamarine sea, and we can’t go far for food. But we do see lights twinkle and glow in the night, sultry red stars from across the street, and soon I sip on a Strawberry Basil Mojito as we give the Mateo’s menu a glance. 

My mojito is a strawberry mash with a touch of terrible rum. Its quality matches that of my no-light, mood-light photos, but it hardly matters as the live band plays.

Ceviche is a must. Mariscos are the specialty of everyone in Tulum, and this marinated bowl of fish and shrimp does not disappoint. The lime juice is thick, and the avocado is so ripe it’s almost sweet as it oozes over striped, fleshy cubes of fish and chewy cocktail shrimp.

The Appetizer Platter is a plato of indecision, a relief for those too travel-weary to think. Fried chunks of fish are perfectly battered, a neutral cheese quesadilla is great with guac, and the carne asada is impossibly juicy and soft. There are grill-lines charred into the soft strips, and they taste like fresh flames.

Sour, salty, savory, all that’s missing is a sweet Coconut Flan. It’s airy but dense, with the occasional coconut shaving cutting through the sugar and egg.

Full belly, gorgeous shower, and waves lapping ashore in warm salt air. We pass out too soon, after what is probably the best first day we’ve ever had in another country.