Sushi Ken - Torrance

God I love south bay sushi. It is an obsession, it is an addiction, it is a budgetary conundrum...And I don't give a damn. Besides, it's dirt cheap compared to LA, and it's healthy if you don't harbor an irrational fear of carbs.

First step to getting on my good side: sell grainy, sweetened nuggets of Ankimo, a monkfish liver I once heard described as the "poor man's foie gras." Sushi Ken delivers. No popping pearls of fat, but the same pasty, liver-y texture hits where it hurts.

It's been rough trying to find a deep-fried Soft Shell Crab that's acceptably fresh and not so clearly frozen for months. Sushi Ken comes about the closest I've seen. I love me some chewy claws, but the jury is out on the yellow in the middle.

The nigiri is still the main attraction, and their delicate, vinegar-ed rice does the sashimi justice. The chef's choice commences with a leaner piece of Tuna, a solid slice that sets the tone for the rest of the meal. 

There is just nothing not to like about a good cut of Toro, but theirs seems to have a little less fat than others. 

The Halibut is so pure. White and untouched, but not so sterile you can't savor the strips. The Red Snapper have some zing within the racing stripes, and it goes down quick and easy to make way for a slick Marinated Salmon. 

Amber Jack is hearty and fleshy, and the Steelhead is a dense, intense hybrid clash of salmon that once was a trout. 

I still can't make myself accept mackerel, but the Spanish Mackerel isn't too bad. Lighter on the vinegar, and much lighter on the palatal assault of fish-juice. 

I love that chewy, cartilaginous Orange Clam, and the Baby Sardine is one of the better iterations I've had. The odor is only pleasant, and its shiny silver belly is slim. It finishes with just the tiniest fishy hint, just enough to give it some distinction. 

The Salmon Roe, too, is far less fishy in both taste and smell, and the salinity is well-controlled. The White Shrimp is sweet, and it tempers the dizzying dollop of wasabi on top. 

The Uni is still my favorite, and this one is a sleek seaside syrup. The Tamago puts an end to a comprehensive spread, a satisfying finale for all.

Far as I'm concerned, Sushi Ken is a win. Some of the best quality for its quantity and cost. Edges out Kantaro by a hair, a hop above Kanpachi, and leagues over the miserable Miura. Chitose comes closer, but I still think Ken is king.