Sasaya - Los Angeles

This is my kind of neighborhood. Not only does it house my most fabulous friend, it is dotted with shops that represent the best of the borderlands. This is the gray area of the crossroads between loud-and-proud LA and cryptic Culver City, and the storefronts shift between ritzy, hippy, shabby-chic, and just plain shabby in the most delightful crisis of unknowing identity.

The strips of stores house discount nail salons next to something Peruvian and very pretty, and the run-down drive-thru makes eyes at the well-groomed Honey Boba across the street.

Sasaya rides that line with impeccable Japanese finesse, a clean cave with a casual vibe; LA prices with Culver City chic.

But not everything is pricey. We avoid the sushi and yakatori as the small plates seem much more affordable. The Pork Kakuni is fairly-priced, a deceptively dense bowl of soft, gristly belly fat with a strong sweet soy and a malleable soft boiled egg.

A sizzling skillet serves the classic Beef Teppanyaki, a soft, rare steak of medium quality,

and a solid staple with side of Garlic Enoki completes the combination of steak n' shroom.

There is always room for roe, and my favorite Cod Roe Udon comes through with thick, chewy, gooey-coated noodles.

The tried-and-true ring true, but there are some unique plates as well. The Mochi Cheese is one I have yet to see. My experience with savory mochi starts and ends with tempura, and this gooey, salty, chewy-cheese casserole has me begging for more.

Japanese restaurants serve beef tongue a-plenty, but the Smoked Beef Tongue has its own spin. Small, swallowable cubes make the softest jerky you'll ever try, and you really taste some soot without inhaling the ash.

Think of the best omelet you can imagine, and the Umaki might come to mind. Two favorites rolled into one; a fine, fluffy tamago blankets slices of sweet eel for a roll of unagi umami. A shockingly cogent combination - savory-sweet...and more savory-sweet.

I don't often go up to Culver, and I rarely cross the great LA divide. But this is one of few unintentionally-ethnic trips that didn't end in dissatisfaction and a massive bill. Good food isn't cheap up there, but Sasaya is a mezzo-moderate mix, and it tastes pretty damn good.