Itoh Dining Kyoto - Kyoto, Japan

Will work for wagyu. Will also work through every other awful dish on Itoh's chef's choice menu to get to the only thing that matters.

It all starts with a boring Beef Tongue, which sets the tone for the lackluster meal. A snooze-worthy soy sauce-marinated beef is actually a little tough as whatever preparation made the tongue lose some of its tender texture. It sleeps on a bed of boiled whatever vegetables.

The Barley and Vegetables Soup tastes like Campbell's at its finest. Well-balanced in flavor and proportions, made in the finest microwave.

The Pate Brick is probably the worst thing I've ever had. Between the presentation and the contents, I felt like I was eating out of a garbage bag. At first, it looks like a drawstring purse. Then you open the purse and the bag bursts open, spilling what looks like something you scrape off a plate before placing it in a dishwasher.

There is a small, chewy chunk of white fish, tomato "pate" that bears an eerie resemblance to leftover spaghetti sauce, and a pulpy floret of broccoli on top.

The Grilled Black Cod with white miso sauce changes the course of the meal, with the thinnest crisp outside encasing a soft white flesh beneath. The cod and miso are cogent complements but must be combined with care as the miso can bulldoze the delicate filet.

Cranky after suffering through so many courses, I was starting to resent the steak. How much suffering is A4 Kuroge Wagyu really worth? The answer is A LOT. There may be no limit to how much I'm willing to suffer. Each pliable piece turns to juice and more juice, releasing an overpowering gamey, savory fragrance, as the marbling melts into liquid meat. There's nothing solid left by the time you swallow.

I would have been happy to end with the beef. The Strawberry Creme buried by berry is a pleasing pairing, but I didn't need the nice, forgettable dessert.

Far as I can see, Itoh only knows how to make one thing but they do make it very well. The rest of the menu is awful but at least I learned a lesson: Conciseness is not overrated, and next time I get wagyu beef, I'll remember to cut to the chase.