Jolly Oyster Market - Torrance

A good oyster never comes at a good price in the South Bay. Gone are my juicy, buttery Boston Wellfleets from Marliave, slurped down for a dollar between the hours of 5 and 6. A good oyster will cost you nearly $4 on this side of the Pacific.

And to be honest, the Pacific oysters aren't very good. The brine hits with a thunk, making a mouthful of dull wash that ends a little bit bitter, but it's nothing a splash of the beet or Thai chili mignonette can't fix.

But it's hard to complain when Jolly makes them so affordable. At $1.25 per oyster, with a little extra if you want them shucked, it's hard to say no to a dozen or two of the Kumamoto. The flavors are more concentrated when they're smaller. These start salty and finish slightly sweet.

Inexpensive and fresh is best of both worlds, and the Jolly oyster also blends the best. A cross of Kumamoto and Pacific, the Pacific dulls the briny tinge, and the Kumamoto shrinks the size and adds the sweet. The flavor-burst will put a pretty big smile on your face after you slurp n' slide them down.

You either love oysters or you hate them, but you can't love them too often without going bankrupt. Jolly's lets you get your jollies at a price that won't put you into the poorhouse. You may wish for more variety or a fancier place with tables to eat on, but believe me, you don't need the frills for oysters so good and fresh.