A Gourmand at Gourmet Dumpling House - Boston

This is the point where I finally give in and review my favorite restaurant in Chinatown. I refuse to rate it because my rating is hardly fair. I am the granddaughter of the world’s greatest chef and no one and no thing comes close to my grandma’s cooking. Aside from my mother, GDH is probably the closest anyone’s ever come. So consider this a rapid-fire tour through a menu that even Chinese people will line up for.

For starters, the Oyster Pancake with Gravy is an interesting starter. The oysters are juicy, but the pancake itself may be too much starch for some. Not for me. The Scallion Pancake is perfectly fried with an amazing batter, probably the only batter that gives my grandma a run for her money. The Crispy Fried Tofu is unbelievable crispity crunchity goodness, a great neutral option for a table of cow-savers.

As a random side-note for the depressed and the appetite-suppressed, i.e. me on pediatrics: the Lamb Soup is a pretty good starter. I like it better with chunks of lamb, but if I can’t have my grandma’s soup, I can reasonably settle for this one.

The Mini Juicy Dumplings with Pork and Crabmeat are easily the best thing here. In case you’re surprised, the name of the restaurant indicates that it IS a dumpling house…The pork ones are good too, but believe me you don’t want just pork when you can have crab too. Just know that they take longer to come out because they need to be made to order and don’t survive take-home boxes so steer clear if you’re in a hurry or not hungry enough. The Vegetarian Dumplings, steamed or pan-fried, are a good alternative for those who don’t eat meat or just don’t eat pork. The chive and rice noodle filling is tasty, though it’d be better if they added egg. Then again, if you don’t eat egg, this is the dish for you.

If you’re someone who often starves because you don’t eat anything, the Sesame Chicken is for you. And by “one who starves” I mean won’t-eat-anything-that-isn’t-chicken, anaphylactically-allergic-to-everything-on-the-menu, or won’t-try-anything-that-isn’t-a-hamburger. Despite the condescending tone, this is a legitimately serious suggestion. The sesame chicken, and the orange chicken, so I’ve heard, are far better than anything you’ll get a grease-on-the-walls fast food place.

For vegetarians, the Home Style Bean Curd give you chunks of fried tofu with various vegetables in a starch-thickened brown sauce. The Sauteed Chinese Mushrooms Over Greens are a light accompaniment to any heavy fried-breaded-chicken meal. The mushrooms are large juicy caps – none of that canned crap, and the bok choy is steamed just enough so it’s not slimy. The Ma Po Tofu is one to avoid. It tastes great, but as a purist, it’s supposed to be made with ground pork, and it’s just not the same without.

For those who love the authentic regional dishes, the Pork Bellies with Preserved Vegetables are an unusual but worthwhile adventure though you really should share this dish – the veggies are too salty and the pork too fatty for one. Avoid the classic comfort of the House Pork Chops Over Rice. It’s crudely made and crudely flavored – save your pork chop craving for Taiwan Café down the street.  The Sauteed Pork Julienne with Bamboo Tips seems over-simplified, but it’s really quite good. The pork is tender and so are the baby bamboo shoots. Ideal for appreciators of simplicity…and carnivorous pandas.

The Hot Pots and Clay Pots are good options if you’re sharing with a large group, especially with family. Get one if you’re indecisive or just want something that looks cool and simmers while it’s sitting next to you.

My usual Sliced Fish Szechuan Style is a pot of slow death. Steaming and glowing red-hot with the wrath of a thousand chilis, the flaky fish softens the blow of the fire that will crack and dance on your tongue. Just when you think it’s not so bad, you take a cold sip of water, and find that your tongue is numb. And thus, the classic cycle of Szechuan spice is complete.

The thing I love most about GDH is that they’re accommodating. I know the service sucks, but it’s not an authentic Chinese place if you don’t spend half your meal chasing after a glass of ice water, and it’s not Chinese service if you don’t wave down various waiters at least 5 times per meal. Then again, the staff is still friendly, and if you want a dish made with a different meat or a different sauce, they’ll do it and they’ll do it well. With that kind of accommodation, who can really complain about having to ask for a glass of water more than once? There’s always tea on the table so you’re hardly dying of thirst.

At the end of the day, GDH has everything an occasionally homesick Chinese-American girl could want: generous portions at great prices with the so stuffed you need to be rolled out the door feeling that only Chinatown can provide. And this Chinese-American girl picks GDH over all others. The line will be long, but believe me, I’d wait for days.