Lunch is on the colorful patio at Copal, a post-pandemic production that brings Oaxaca to Santa Cruz.
Crispy Molotes crackle and release puffs of steam, unveiling a core of soft potato with whispers of chorizo. The flavors fold together, cooled by jets of creamy guac-grazed salsa. Dip deeply for a spicy, smoky stab.
Black mole is their brand, and the Tamal en Hoja de Platano is one of the better ways to try it. Firmly-soft masa envelops a tender pork, doused in a river of mole. This one is dark but finishes on a lighter note, more sweetness than earth, more silk than grit. It’s smooth and not entirely overpowering, and I like it well enough. The mole takes center stage, but there must be an homage to the superbly savory side of beans.
Burrito Mojado contains a basic shredded chicken, cooked well and intertwined with Mexican white rice and lettuce. The ingredients are simple and prepared to perfection, yet they let the mole speak. It’s a beautiful combination, though I do wish for a little more mole.
Wash it all down with an icy Agua Fresca, either fragrant hibiscus or horchata.
I can’t say their mole blew my mind, but their salsa game is strong. Even the free stuff they give with the chips has a real bite, and the side with the molotes is something to remember. I haven’t had much Mexican in Santa Cruz, or much of anything, for that matter, but Copal convinced me to try a lot more.
No comments:
Post a Comment