It’s been a long year. Learning to live in lockdown has been trying, and I've struggled to make peace with so many ups and downs. But just when I think I've achieved acceptance, something tears me up all over again, like this most recent moment when I lost Izakaya Hachi all over again.
There’s no substitute for the inside of an izakaya, and this one had no equal. The counter had a lively buzz as friends old and new bonded over beer. The dark wood tables held happy couples, romantic and platonic, and the whole place would vibrate with undeniable chemistry under dim yet revealing lights. The servers would bustle as people filed in to relax from their daily hustle.
Covid came and took that away, and I never really processed that loss until I ordered Omakase Plus. I thought that a platter of pinchable pleasures would bring back fond memories, but the feelings were bittersweet.
The beginning box of chef's choice Sashimi was pretty, but immediately there was a difference. The fish is great: The tuna is lean and mean, the toro tastes like butter and fat, salmon is creamy and slick, the snapper is meaty and sweet, and the pretty white slices of squid and halibut are fresh and seamless. But it just doesn’t taste the same in a plastic box, and the plating loses its impact when it’s not on their artisanal plates.
Then there's the platter. A little cup of this, a little tray of that, packed on a plastic plate. I love the little samples, but I want them one plate at a time.
Everything on this plate is exquisite. I’m not a fan of the raw octopus due to personal preference, but I do love their light tempura of sweet, juicy jumbo shrimp, and that root vegetable with ground meat to the right is divine. I'm not sure what that was, but I love the earthy flavor with mildly fruity notes and the starchy yet tender texture.
Karaage is juicy and crisp, and concentric layers of tamago are soft and fluffy. Potato salad glows pink, sea-soned with artificial crab and a lot of mayo. Next is a slightly random salami and olives. Keep rotating for some mild pickles as a palate cleanser.
The fried oysters are fabulous, buttery and meaty with not much brine. The sausages look like cocktail weenies, but they have a lot more snap and smoke.
Rare-red slices of Beef Tataki sit center, co-starring with tender rings of a large Boiled Squid.
My heart broke a little more when I tried to order the best thing they make. Their beef tongue steak has no equal, especially not this Ribeye Steak Ponzu. A good steak for sure, but not enough to get over the hurt of not having beef tongue.
I miss you, Izakaya Hachi. More than you’ll ever know and more than I could understand. These takeaways are good, but so much of your essence and your spirit are lost. I thought I had made my peace with covid, but now I hate it more than ever. It’s already taken so much, and it can’t have you too. Hang in there, Izakaya Hachi, as soon as you can safely open your doors, I'll be running in.
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