Komal - Los Angeles - Taco Tour #15

They came from Holbox so I know they can cook. They've been making Michelin-star tortillas down to the masa so I know the food is good. 

What I didn't know is that the people are the best thing about Komal. I walk up to the counter, and I get the most joyful, lights-up-her-whole-face smile from Fatima herself. It's almost as sunny as the sweet-tart notes of their Strawberry Hibiscus agua del dia, which is  best when mixed with the very chill cactus and cucumber over ice.

I ask for recommendations, she gives them warmly. The Tlacoyos are an excellent starter, with those beautiful tortillas that are so many things; earthy, nutty, smooth, fragrant. The beans in the middle add a different texture and depth, and the toppings of cool cactus and queso fresco add airy, acidic notes. 

The Molotes de Platano are quite heavy, and I think they might make a better dessert. The plantains sweeten the deep chocolate notes in the mole. It's beautifully dense, but on the other hand, it's heavy and will fill you up fast. 

The Flor de Calabaza Quesadilla explodes like a sunflower, its paper-thin squash blossoms floating from a black tortilla. The flowers are a breezy squash-y silk, balanced by a sunny, sweet-corn sofrito and a milky cheese that stretches every bite into bright white strands.

Don't forget to fully appreciate their show-stealing salsas. The rojo is fiery but sweet and brings the heat to highlight the quesadilla. 

The tomatillo salsa is gallantly green. Impossibly fresh, it imparts a brightness that elevates this Taco de Costilla to another level. The thinly-sliced short rib is impossibly tender and full of flavor. It's covered with an entire order of fries to add a contrasting crunch.

The Taco Sonia seems like a lot, but the many flavors merge into something deceptively straightforward. It's the best bite I've had this year, with an impeccable balance and surprising sophistication. Bits of beef rib and hits of longaniza smooth over creamy scoops of mashed potato, strips of sour cactus, and a stripe of spicy salsa.

If you prefer to stick to something simple, Tacos de Suadero are a sensible choice. The brisket is shreddy and fatty, finished simply with onion, cilantro, and a side of salsa. 

I eat what I can and ask for boxes to go. Fatima's husband Conrado is behind the counter, and he sends someone to look at my table just to help me figure out what boxes I need. He even doubles back to ask if I want utensils too. He says thank you so sincerely, holding eye contact for a moment so I know he is really means it. Food stalls are not known for service, but at Komal I've never felt more seen.

People want you to believe you can taste the love in your food, but I'm not sure I could believe it until I came to Komal. I tried so much of the menu and found that the dishes are so different but also the same. They're hard-hitting with no hard notes, impactful and memorable, incredibly deep and flavorful, so many notes and all are uplifting. The warm things are warm, but even the cold things will warm your soul. It's the stuff you serve someone you love. Komal, I love you too. 

Little Dynamite - Los Angeles

TIL: Detroit-style pizza comes in squares. The dough is deep, but not so deep to be a bowl, just deep enough that it's more like bread and holds its shape, unlike its floppy, foldable antithesis from New York. The bottom is crispy, the edges as well. The dough is just perfectly bready and fluffy without being too yeasty or sour, and it's the perfect conduit for the sweet acidity of the tomato sauce, which is spread in an even layer. It's surprisingly easy to eat despite being very filling, and new-to-me style of pizza has me shook.

Combinations like the Death Breath are perfectly balanced, with pepperoni that makes me forget I don't like pepperoni, a sprinkling of sausage with a little sass, and just enough cheese to assert itself but not enough to blanket the other toppings. Add that with the roast garlic that's gone soft and gooey, and you'll be breathing alone (happily) for quite a long time.

Similar is the Cowabunga; pepperoni and cheese but there's ribbons of pistachio pesto and sweet pineapple wedgelets to keep it light. 

Lighter still is the Bad Gurl, with just garlic and some pesto.

Mom said eat your vegetables, and here she piles them on.

The Good Green is the only one with no tomato, just pesto and all the cheese - four to be exact. 

Mar-Ghoul-Rita is a Halloween gimmick, and I love the taste but hate the shtick. The tomato sauce is beautifully sweet and tangy, but I don't know why anyone would want to eat something that dyes their mouth black. Those ghost-shaped bits of cheese are cute, but I want more than a couple dots of mozzarella.

My favorite toppings are on the Hot Jimmy, and it seems they excel in all shapes are this traditional round pizza has a beautiful, chewy, not-too-thin crust to hold a whole lot of cheese with sausage and garlic. It's the drizzle of hot honey that does it for me. 

I think I got to experience Little Dynamite in the best way possible; fantastic pizzas without the nightmare parking that is the streets of Venice. The new-to-me style of Detroit is surprisingly scrumptious, and I will always be up for having it again...and again.

Au Lac - Fountain Valley

A fancy-feeling meat-free menu, Fountain Valley's Au Lac leaves your heart full and your belly never empty. 

Plants aplenty; in fact that's all there is. But while veganism often leaves you wanting, the BBQ Pork Rolls will fool even the most consummate carnivore. Soy pork looks like spam, and the supple texture and finishing savor mimics meat spectacularly.

Entrees like the Grilled Seafood Noodles are enriched with vegan shrimp that approximate the flavor and appearance down to the succulence and stripes. Beancurd has a crunch, and meaty mushrooms add umami. The side sauce adds salinity and makes it pop. 

The Royal Noodle Soup is the only one that misses the mark. It's supposed to simulate a bun bo hue, but this one lacks intensity and depth. It's not a bad bowl of noodle soup, but there is just no way a few slices of soy protein can conjure the sassy, spicy, sweet-and-sour, unapologetically pig-centered soup.

The Grilled Fish Rice Paper Wraps are their most impressive dish. Served on a silver tray, the soy fish is covered in a sheet of nori that looks just like skin and adds sea-savor to a flaky-textured meat that has both the flavor and texture of a dry filet. Throw a little bit of everything into a chewy wrapper, dunk in sweet sauce, and I swear it's the best thing I've eaten all day. 

They're well known for their desserts, but the drinks deserve a moment as well. The Chocoholic is a subtly sweet and foamy sip that highlights the dark notes of raw cacao and earthy hemp seeds.

For a non-liquid dessert, try a slice of Scotch on the Rocks, a cheesecake-like pie with grainy, mac-nut notes.

I've gained a new appreciation for cacao as of late, and I love the Choconut Xtasy, which is cacao-forward without so much sugar.

Like most obstinate omnivores, I'm quick to dismiss vegan restaurants as missing the meat. To be fair, tofu, seeds, and weeds just don't cut it when you don't know how to use them. Au Lac, on the other hand, highlights and celebrates them in a way that tastes delicious and feels complete. Au Lac's food isn't about the absence of meat, it's about how good the plants can be. 

TacoNazo - Bellflower - Taco Tour #14

When you have the nerve to name your taco "World Famous", it better be making waves. 

Well, the fish taco does swimmingly, and I'll admit, I am impressed. The fish comes as a sizable chunk, battered and fried fluffy and crisp over firm and flaky bites beneath. Top with all the fixins and the addictive white sauce for an incredible balance. 

Fish or shrimp? FISH or SHRIMP? The vote is split. The shrimp is sweeter but some prefer the fishier flavor. There's more fish and a better ratio to batter, but the shrimp is lacking either. I couldn't decide so I ate equal amounts of both. 

The Potato Taco Dorado is the vegetarian equivalent, a mass of well-seasoned mashed potato inside a tortilla that's perfectly crunchy and fried. It's nothing like the others but also just as good.

I would not drive out to Bellflower for a taco, but one of our vendors did. It's hardly a short swim from the beach cities, but now that I've had it, I think it's worth the drive. I ate five tacos in a single sitting after all, and I can't imagine I wouldn't want to do that again. 

Akasha - Culver City

Gimme something good to eat. 

The food feels good going down, healthy like the Hummus & Crudite, with all that color on the plate. The hummus is good but not a standout and acts as an enhancer rather than a self-aggrandizer. It peps up neutral flavors like white cauliflower and crunchy radish, complements the peppers and cukes and takes some edge off bolder greens like the arugula and broccolini. 

Silky cubes put sweetness on an earthy papadum in the Yellowtail & Pomegranate Crudo. A memorable sauce where coconut collaborates with the citrus, a strong yet smooth, surprisingly deep flavor that lingers. I might pair it with a less delicate fish, and then I would drink it up. 

Lunch is a bit of a limited menu, IMO, offering only salads and sandwiches. I would have liked to see some entrees, but that's not on them. The Wagyu Beef Burger is a good one, an impressively seamless combination, with a very juicy patty that blends into the chopped-onion-cheese and fixins. Fries are often an afterthought, but theirs are very enjoyable - they're more savory somehow and even better when dunked in an aioli with a fantastic finish. 

Akasha got a lukewarm review from my first visit, but I think they deserve a warmer reception than I initially gave. The food is good, and I can't expect everything I eat to blow my mind. Here they seem to be gunning for good, and at that, they are successful. 

Taco Tour #13 - Evil Cooks - Los Angeles

Taco Tour lucky #13, and what an appropriate number. If Wednesday Addams opened a restaurant with Morticia as the host and Gomez at the grill, this place would be it. The ominous name and metal-morbid theme is deliciously dark, and the outdoor patio's giant skeleton and fountain of blood is everything a Halloween aficionado ever wanted.

Despite earning my respect for choosing a theme and doubling down hard, I believe only a truly evil person would have chosen these fonts for the menu. I have never in 40 years found such an eyesore, and I swear I couldn't even focus for more than a moment, nevermind read the menu and figure out what I want. I ordered one of each on their most popular tacos list just to stop the assault on my eyes, and this is coming from someone who has taken multiple 8-hour boards. Then again, this kinda goes with the theme. 

Theme aside, the tacos are the best. So many uniquely different options, I'm sold on all the seafood. 

The Simmons is a strong start; presentation on point, a sensual slab of tongue on display. Tender beyond belief, just woefully under-seasoned.

The McSatan is just a burger, but the best burger I've ever had. Juiciest patty I’ve ever tasted, seasoned just so, crunchy bacon on gooey cheese with acid guac and a thick tortilla that's better than any bun. 

I didn't love the Rock Lobster as it's impossible to eat. Cannot pick it up, cannot eat neatly, must be taken apart and reassembled to get all elements in a single bite. But I'd still get it again just for the fantastic flavor of the lobster tunnel inside, coupled with a super-crunch tortilla and sour-salsa tomatillo.

The god of aquatic tacos Poseidon makes magic with octopus pastor. The tenderest tentacles, blackened by flames, with a sweet pineapple tide.

El Goth is black tortilla, black pastor that pops. Super crispy crust on the pork, super sass and spice in the seasoning, a marvel of a spice mix, so good it survives without a spit.

El Asesino: The two best meats they make, complementary color, flavor, texture too. Two perfect makes too perfect. 

All black is back, and I personally love knowing that anything I wear is bound to match their food and decor. The tacos are truly amazing, and I laud their remarkably clever use of very little space. It isn't about the amount of space, it's about what you do with it. And here they're doing big things in that tiny little kitchen.

Feng Mao - Olympic - Los Angeles

Are you an introvert? Are you SO introverted that you avoid dining out just to avoid service? Say no more! 

For a weekday lunch at Feng Mao, you can grab a table with minimal eye contact and zero words, scan the code on the wall and order off your phone. Your food will arrive with as little interaction as you desire, though a quick "thank you" might be nice, and you can watch your skewers sizzle on this futuristic self-turning contraption with no further human interaction for the remainder of your meal. 

There's not much to say anyway - the food is just fantastic. The restaurant is Korean-Chinese, and you get the best of both worlds. They comp you all your banchan so there's plenty to nibble, should you need to sate your hunger while your meat-sticks sizzle. You get all the pickles; kimchee, daikon, and seaweed, and you even get a little salad with sesame-ginger dressing. There's a dish of boiled peanuts from the Chinese side, too. 

Apps are optional, but this spicy Shredded Potato serves as a cold and crunchy contrast to the hot meat, an adequate appetite-whetter for what's to come and a palate cleanser as well.

Firm, roasted Lotus Root soaked in garlic serves as another inter-meat intermezzo, ordered with zero necessity, eaten with zero regrets. 

Skewers are the main event, and one only needs the slightest whiff of the cumin clinging to the Lamb Kebab to see how Feng Mao got famous. The fire crispy-crusts the outside, sealing the juices within. 

Other options include Marinated Beef with a sweet sauce, a come-over from the Korean side as northeastern China's food runs salty. 

Beef Tendon is tender and supple, texture adding to taste. 

Chicken Gizzards can be more chewy, especially when you let them overcook (oops...), but a good stick of offal is never truly awful. 

Wider strips of Maitake Mushroom grill into something tender, but require a good dunk in the side of seasoning as they are otherwise rather bland. 

These are the first legit lamb skewers I've seen stateside, and they bring me back to the back alleys of Beijing...if Beijing back alleys were clean and served quality cuts. The best food comes from the most curious places, but despite being a very clean and legitimately-run restaurant, Feng Mao truly captures the best of the street food, especially the stuff on sticks. 

Tonkatsu Marushichi - Torrance

Are you here for the food or are you here for the ambiance? 

Tonkatsu Marushichi is for the food. Two counters house eight tight seats, and a few fans overwork with the open door in a losing battle against the inferno of frying as thick cutlets sizzle to order.

The menu stays focused, with just a few cuts and three ways to serve them; over rice, between bread, or under a curry cover. 

It's a beautiful Yaki Katsudon, and the panko still crunches after half an hour of stewing in its steam. The juicy cutlet sits on a bed of egg which blankets a pork-dripping-katsu-sauce-saturated rice. 

The Katsu Sando is hefty and thick, fluffy bread and pink pork cooked low and slow. 

Curry comes with pork loin nuggets; it's a mild and smooth bit of soup. 

No bad choices, but listen when they're talking. The signage tells you the pork is pink, and they warn you to skip the rib-eye if you can't stand the sight of blood. That said, you shouldn't miss it for the world, and I would recommend coming during the cooler winter months so you can sit and eat the cutlet when it's fried to maximum crisp. 

Harry's Oklahoma Style Smokehouse BBQ - Lomita

Harry's is new to me, but they've been killing it for years. Only after 3 or so decades of exclusive catering have they added a small dining area to their algorithm, where a pair of colleagues or a few good friends can enjoy a register-to-grill-to-table meal.

And what a meal it has been. The reason behind their catering success is clear, and it started with the tender, smoky-ringed Pork Ribs. The Brisket is also brilliant, tying the ribs for first - even the lean bits are silky-soft, and for only the second time in SoCal, I've found the smoke to be strong enough. 

Their specialty is Tri-Tip, which is good and steak-y. It's quite different from the usual suspects; more chewing, less shredding, plenty of beefy juice. Burnt Ends are never a bad idea, but I do think the brisket is better. The Fried Okra is fantastic. 

The ambiance is casual contentment, simple tables sitting under photos of famous people. The competence justifies their confidence, and their longevity speaks volumes. In a world where everyone struggles to remain relevant, classics like this are here to stay. I don't know Oklahoma, and I didn't know Harry's, but after having had Harry's, I'd sure like to know both better. 

Pasta Stories - Torrance

I want to love this place, but so far I only like. I usually love simple and affordable, but I find their construct confusing. Their fast food-like setup implies good speed, but every plate takes forever, and it could be closer to an hour during the lunchtime rush. The menu boasts of regional specialities, with hard-hitter words like wagyu and matcha cream, but the sauces are rather light, and frankly the flavors aren't all that fetching. 

I tried my friend's Osaka, a sweet and beefy bolognese-style sauce. The sauce tends to slide off the spaghetti, but the finish is savory subtlety, and this one is so far the best of the lot...which I don't think I liked a lot. 

Fukuoka has an even layer of roe all around, just enough fishy finish for a well-balanced dish. Only for those who like mentaiko, but fortunately, I'm a fan. 

Ehime is another example of their well-balanced sauce, a tomato base carries a comfortable air of seafood. There's an impressive selection from this tiny stall, with shrimp, calamari, mussels, and clams; a couple of each and all quite fresh. 

Avoid the Okinawa. Chunks of bland pork in unseasoned tomato sauce look and taste like something I'd throw together with kitchen leftovers and forgot to salt. 

3/4 so far, but I just can't get enthused. I want to try the rest, especially the more unusual options like tuna-avocado and matcha cream. I don't mean to be so dour - they're overall enjoyable enough, and I plan to come back as they're close to work, but I just don't see them topping my list with what I've seen so far. 

Bread Head - Manhattan Beach

I may not love the location, but I do love the story. A pair of new parents needed a work-life balance that their fine dining careers would have forced them to forgo, and their solution was sandwiches. 

Great bread, this thin and airy, beautifully crispy focaccia, so good the filling almost doesn't matter. 

Get the Combo Grinder but be sure to eat it fast. The dressing seeps into the bottom bread and soaks it through in minutes. The meats are  reminiscent of BCD's claim-to-fame Godmother in their tenderness and smooth texture, but I like their balance better. The salty salami, punchy hot coppa and smooth smoked ham just pop a little bit more, and the fixins are just enough to add some acid with the greens. 

I caught the newly released hot sandwiches, but I'm pretty meh about the Roast Pork & Broccoli Rabe. The bitter broccoli is far too forward, overpowering at tender super-savory, but much subtler pork. 

The Roast Beef suffers similarly, as two inches of bitter arugula hit tender, blander beef quite hard. I do love that mayo and the pop of fresh horseradish, but I feel I could have made this myself minus the bread. 

This little shop of fabulous focaccia has me quite conflicted. The focaccia is fantastic and its airy crumb and crunchilicious crisp is an undeniable draw, but the fillings fall rather flat. Sandwiches are often associated with comfort food and home cooking, but if I'm paying for someone else to make my sandwich, I'm looking for a taste of something I can't get from home. For me, Bread Head just misses the mark. The bread is an awesome start, but a bit more creativity, a bit more pop, a bit more focus on the filling could make them the best thing since sliced bread...and more than just sliced bread.

Nok's Kitchen - Westminster, CA

Don't let the exterior fool you. Nok's Kitchen sits inconspicuously at the back of the very small shopping center next to that giant one. You'll inevitably turn into the giant one first and have to circle back out and try again. 

The person behind you will hate you as you scan at a snail's pace for the rather hidden opening, but it's worth the ire of your fellow road-rager, as if they have any sense, they'll follow you in. This spot undoubtedly earned its place on LA's 101 Best list and possibly my top ten.

I don't know much about Laotian food, but delicious is a language everyone speaks, one I'm all too eager to learn. 
 

I recognize the Roti Curry, but it turns out to be my least favorite of the lot. The roti is paper-thin but very oily. A good curry, but not memorable overall.

What IS memorable is the signature Lao Pork Sausage, and the combo is the way to go. The casings snap so hard, and the mincemeat is so juicy, with a finish to sticky and gooey. Add a ball of sticky rice and dip in the hot-sweet-and-sour jeo som sauce for the best bite of your life.

Tum Mak Houng is papaya salad sweetened with fish sauce, and it colludes with salted crab for some next-level funk. I love that living-ocean flavor, but for sure get it with  cooked shrimp if you don't like fishy things or try a different salad altogether.

The Larb Pork is a fragrant platter, a substantial portion seared and sliced with a rice powder coat for extra sticking of the fish sauce and spice. 

King Mok is a fatty, rich salmon steamed in its own fat, wrapped in an aromatic leaf with cute little eggplants embedded for extra texture. Throw in some fresh dill to make it come alive.

Khao Pad is just fried rice, but with crab it becomes a standout. I thought it'd be little bits for flavor, but I unearth giant, mouth-filling chunks instead. You can just imagine what that does for the taste. 

We'd be too full for the Pandan Mango Sticky Rice if it wasn't so damn good. Sage advice to get the coconut ice cream to accompany - believe me, it completes the dish. I don't even like coconut but this stuff is unlike any ice cream I've ever had. It's surprisingly light on the sugar with an icy texture and a taste like a tropical breeze. 

The Nam Wan Taro is not quite what I expected, but it hits like the congees of childhood. I thought it was more like a gelatin pudding, but this one is more of a starchy stew. Taro is lovely, bananas are sweet, and tapioca adds little bubbles. It's awesome overall, but the mango sticky rice is too good to beat. 

It's a fantastic meal, better than most things Michelin commends. The sausage stays with me, and I still salivate over the memory of the salmon and the pork. I dare you to order something on this menu and tell me you're not in love.